Received mine in the mail a couple of days ago. I am pretty impressed with the quality of the part and how easy it was to replace.
For reference here are the installation instructions and the app for calibrating the throttle after hardware installation.
At the start of the upgrade process. My always curious assistant was wondering what I was up to and why she couldn’t be involved.
It is much better than what the Warthog comes with. I had been using a ‘hot glue’ mod: where-in I cut up a broken XBox controller and hot glued one of the analog sticks tops to the little useless Warthog nub.
The process went relatively by the book.
Disassembly details - click to expand
Note in the next picture that the cable that connects the circuit board to the base came lose in this step. you can see it detached in this picture. We will come back to this later.
The little tabs that you have to depress are a little deep in the cavity. If I had taken the other side off it would have been easier but they are not hard to spot (you can easily see the tab for the hat switch in the picture below (don’t take that one out, but look behind it for the one you want to remove).
And out it comes. Very easy.
Note the notch (sorry for the potato quality picture)
New versus old.
Line up the tab (bottom) when you put the new part in, after removing all of the pieces that had been pre-attached for packaging.
And it fits nicely in place (but doesn’t push all the way through - remember that. It is supposed to just sit in there, flush and is held in place by the plate you put on next).
The only snag I hit was how to reattach the cable that connects the circuit board to the base. This is the cable that I mentioned above. The only solution that I could see was to either shrink someone down put them inside the enclosure and have them reconnect the cable and … well die of dehydration or to take off the panel on the other side of the throttle. I already have most of the screws on that side removed, just have to remove the extra two screws at the bottom - which are in a really inconvenient spot. Be careful not to strip the heads!
Reattach the wires.
And then finish reassembly. Here are the two screw locations that were hard to get to. You have to hold the throttle away from the base (you know how you have to ‘lift’ the throttle over the A-10C engine start detente? do that).
And the last hardware step:
Next comes the software calibration. Make sure that you have updated the throttle to the latest firmware or the calibration will not work. Follow the steps in the docs linked above (clear any old calibration, run the app, do the steps and it works).
It was a easy process to accomplish in about 30 minutes and it adds to the quality of the throttle. I have no idea why Thrustmaster didn’t do this themselves.
Any questions, feel free to ask