Yeah, multi head would’ve been nice. But a filament switcher is ok, as long as you’re not in a hurry.
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I suppose one could print PLA supports, then an interface layer in PETG or PVA, then the part in PLA in order to minimize manual filament swaps?
Having printed a few more parts in Sirayatech Blu resin, I’m thinking that’s what I will use for the Styrspak 37 once files are released.
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That’s exactly what I’m doing. But due to the rather complex shape of the stick grip, the PETG interface exists somewhere on half of the layers anyway…
I have ordered a roll of PVA support, to see how that works. It’s a great idea, in theory…
It will come as a surprise to no one if I end up getting a resin printer… 
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Looking good, love the three crowns emblem.
Will you be releasing multiple interfaces for different joystick base brands?
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Initially just Thrustmaster/Virpil as those are the only ones I’ve got. What else is there? WinWing and VKB?
Yeah, VKB via their own grip-internal Thrustmaster adapter.
Winwing has their own adapter for Thrustmaster grips that should be usable on the standard Styrspak interface.
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Ok, så VKB still use that interface. I still have one of those from my old VKB stick. It’s a much better solution than TM, IMO.
But the TM interface is very popular 
Shouldn’t be too hard to adapt my adapter to the others.
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They have changed the electrical contact again for the Mk4, but the mechanical part should be the same.
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Loving that base design. Far better looking than the thin stalk of pot metal “some manufacturers” insist on continuing to use…
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If y’all had to buy a resin printer today, what would you recommend?
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And it looks more like the force transducer unit that sits below the grip as well.
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That is the question…
I want something that’s easy to use.
I’ve had no issues with my Elegoo Jupiter (old version, not SE), and an Anycubic Wash&Cure station. I like that the Jupiter has a fixed cabinet with a door rather than a lift-off orange plastic enclosure like many other printers (including the Jupiter SE).
You will need a chamber heater and perhaps also a vat heater band unless printing in the height of Scandinavian summer or your garage or workshop is heated and well insulated, certainly for Blu or other engineering resins that need to be at 25°C when you hit print.
And - do not mess about with this! - you will need a steady supply of nitrile gloves, ethanol or isopropyl alcohol for cleaning and a good mask equipped with a gas filter.
The uncured resin is a nasty sticky mess that will make you horribly allergic to it if you don’t handle it like you would burning plague-infected nuclear waste… okay, maybe not quite that bad but do NOT mess around with the stuff or it will punish you to the point you can never walk into a room that has an opened resin bottle in it again.
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All of this is what keeps me from resin printing. It’s a lot of work, and I don’t have a great place to deal with all the chemicals and cleaning.
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Yeah… I really want all the advantages of resin, but I don’t want to deal with the disadvantages.
There is a solution… but it probably won’t be affordable for at least another decade.
Never mind the color, but you just lift the finished print out with an ungloved hand and dump it in an ultrasonic bath with water to get rid of the supports.
Just needs a 99% off sale… ^^
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Holy… 
The future is already here…!
Today I’d say the BambuLab printers with AMS able to print four different materials is the way to go.
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