lol, my brain already hurts… 
Is it as cunning as a fox who’s been to Oxford university?
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It’s as cunning as a fox that used to be professor of cunning at Oxford University but has moved on, and is now working for the UN at the High Commission of International cunning plans.
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What do you guys think of this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3082051
Shouldn’t be too hard to add a third neutral position for comrade Mikoyan’s planes. right?
Yeah that’s easy enough. Though you probably want to start from scratch anyway since it’s an STL file and not something you can edit in FreeCAD/Fusion etc.
Yes, but that’s hard to replicate for us mortals 
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”Why does Rice play Texas?”
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I have edited stl’s in blender. I had to change the hole sizes so my nuts would fit. (Somehow that sounds wrong!)
I meant the ones that you fit onto bolts!
I would recommend copying the original to a seperate layer in blender so you can revert back to that if you make unrecoverable mistakes.
You’d have to think about where to put the switch, for neutral.
Not necessarily. You can use a profiling software which triggers a key command when the switch transitions to off.
But you want the neutral position to trigger when either up or down switch is released…
I guess it’s possible, but if you’re going to make it, it’s just a matter of adding a third switch.
I am also not sure how this would work in the sim as the neutral position dumps hyd pressure on the line. You don’t want to do that in the gear transition? Or do you always go from neutral position to up or dn? Not from dn to up?
I’d just add a microswitch in the middle, triggered by the up/dn lock.
And I would also put the up/dn locks in line with the handle. I.e. aiming them towards the rotation point. That way you pull the handle in a straight line, to unlock it.
Here’s a schematic of how I solved the switch placements on my build,
Up/dn switches on one side and the neutral switch on the other…
This is actually easier to make than that thingiverse B58 handle.
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Ah yeah you can, you can even recover STL’s back to a parametric design in Fusion360 and FreeCAD with some effort,though to me it usually is easier to start from scratch so that all the constraints fit nicely.
I suppose I generalized it a bit too much.
I mentioned it earlier that I’ve not studied electronics nor played around with the controller boards that’s been about (in fact I only became aware of the abundance of cheap controller boards a little before joining here). So some questions might be somewhat basic, I do though have some basics wrt electronic circuits from science class at school more than 20 years ago and can pick things up.
Firstly what’s the purpose of the additional PCB(s)? The initial impression I got was that you could just connect your inputs to the controllers.
How many connectors do you need for a HAL sensor, when I tried to pull up spec sheets for the TLE5010 it looked like 3 or 5 connectors (more from the image, than ability to spend time to decipher the sheet).
I’m not in that big a rush as I’d most likely only really get time in 2 months from now (atm there’s higher priority things going on but I can still spend bits of time on understanding what’s involved).
Currently I am sitting on an open ended objective / project mainly because I know that if I start something I am going to want to improve on it (The type of end result I am going to be happy with you don’t start from the deep end else you are not going to finish it, you start it slowly learn and build up on).
You can think of the PCBs a s ‘break out boards’ that allows for connectors instead of soldering directly to the micro controller. It makes the whole process a lot tidier and allows for switching components easily, should one fail.
A regular hall sensor needs three ports, +5V, GND and input. The +5V and GND are the same for all sensors.
A TLE sensor uses 6 ports, where 5 are the same for all sensors and one is unique.
My PCBs are designed for TLE5010 sensors, but traditional HALL sensors can be used. With this PCB layout you can have a separate connector for each TLE sensor, instead of daisy-chaining them, again making it easier to replace a broken sensor.
The shift registers handles 8 switches each. Use four for 32 switches or 16 for 128 switches. If you use a socket for each shift register, you can swap these as well…
Now, I must confess that i haven’t had a single component failure, so maybe my PCBs are totally unnecessary…? Or maybe they are the reason that no component has failed…?
In any case, they make the design a bit more modular and easier to use.
Just to clarify my understanding.
With ‘port’ you are referring to connection i.e solder point or single ‘cable’ pin.
The amount of pins you’d need for ‘x’ TLE sensors are 5+x
From the photo in Gadget’s PCB thread there’s some extra ‘components’ on your PCB, what’s their purpose?
Edit: I am a very poor guy at following tutorials as I need to understand what I am doing before I am doing it (while most tutorials are in the mindset of you follow them and will understand what you did some time later)
The connection points on the micro controller.
The purpose of my PCB is just to move those out from the controller PCB so you can solder multiple pins to the same port on the micro controller.
Those are two shift registers, allowing for 16 switches/buttons. You can then add multiple smaller shift register PCBs to that PCB.
I made this solution for my Radar controller joystick, where I needed two shift registers in the handle.
The long slim things on each side of the 16 pin chip sockets with chips (Shift registers) in them on Troll’s pcb, are resistor array’s. They are needed, but at this point I can’t remember exactly why.
I would very much recommend that you go through this thread on the ED forum.
It has a lot of useful info and the guys are really helpful.
The advantage of shift registers is that you can daisy chain them.
In post 89 on this page of the MMJoy thread
https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=120049&page=9
The 3 boards with 6 shiftregisters total gives 48 buttons using only 5 pins on the Arduino board. Just remember that Windows joy.cpl only sees first 32 and that it is only the first 32 that supports timings and other settings in MMJoy2.
Hope that this helps.
When current (I) flows through a resistor, that creates a voltage across the resistor.
V=IxR
No current means zero volts.
The resistor is connected between V+ or ground and to an input to the chip. A switch has to be in the circuit to provide On/Off.
Hey guys sorry for the resurrection of the thread but I need a suggestion from DYI-able people.
I need to buy a soldering iron for fixing old electronics. Nothing dramatic, C64s, Atari ST, that sorta stuff.
What I kindly ask is, what details of a soldering iron should I mind for when browsing places like Amazon and such?
Do any of you have a favourite brand/type?
Thanks!