Started a new thread as the other ones where more ‘personal’ projects, so didn’t want to hijack someones thread.
My plan was to gather simpit stuff to 3d print!
I will finish up my little project for my Winwing throttle, then post the stl. here.
I made a little buttonbox with the goal of doing a complete cold start. The labels will by made off Dymo tape.
I’ll post some more pics and part list when I upload the stl.
This might be good for those that want more buttons, or like me that has something temporary till I can build a replica console.
Feel free to share what you got, I’ll try to finish up some of my Viggen stuff aswell, hopefully I can give something back to this fantastic community!
I’ll get some more pics tomorrow, but I think it works.
Haven’t sprayed on varnish on that one, but I think that will help unify it a bit aswell. Tried backlighting thru it on a button, but that didn’t work tho, there is however black with clear text iirc
That works surprisingly well! I’ve been experimenting and printing my own buttons so that helps with backlight issues when/if I want to do it. I’ve already have space in the design to have it. What sort of issues did you run into?
The white text is not transparent since it is layed upon black vinyl or som plastic, didn’t think that far. But 3d text work fine aswell, just time consuming.
The benefit I find is that with 3d printed panel and Dymo I can make really cheap panel, maybe 1$ in material cost for a 7 dzus panel, and I enjoy making the models so the CAD time is worth it for me
Here is some early Gripen panels I made
Sloppy cutting of the tape, was more a proof of concept
Yes that’s my approach too, I enjoy tinkering in CAD applications and the 3D printer happily chugs along. 3D text just requires the printer to go slow and accurate. I’ve also tried to print 50x50mm instrument displays with a 3D text that I can then fill in in a different colour but that has had mixed results so far.
Thats my best result sofar with text, I ordered the same part from shapeways aswell to see if the results were much better. Haven’t done anything with that part yet but I guess that would be easier to backlighted since its more of a uniform material, need to get around to try that
I have been using those PCB mounted buttons with a spring and a sliding member to allow some travel and feedback to create panel buttons that I can drop in/out. By making it all a bit longer it leaves me space to mount LED’s on the inside. The top of the button is 3D printed so I can easily leave it open and fill it up with a see-through material.
years ago I read a article about someone casting acryll to make buttons. Perhaps I can find that again, it was interesting to see that technique.
Sometimes I wish I had a router though, that would be so awesome
What did you use for the CK-37 display? Did you solder your own breakout board for those 7-segment LED’s or did you use a MAX7219/21 breakout board with the segments attached? I’ve found those for cheap on aliexpress so opted for that.
I used this one, It’s non functional as I can’t program it myself, but there is another version of it with a more commonly used chip, don’t remember what it is called now tho, that’s supposedly a little easier to get working with DCS Bios. I just hooked it up to a Nano, a guy at a swedish forum created a sample text that looked great on it.
Aaah! The venerable 595! That’s a serial in parallel out shift register, the 165 is the opposite(parallel in, serial out). It allows you to shits bits into a pattern of 8 bit(or more if you daisy chain the chips) over a single line. Then when you shift the voltage on a different line it will put the pins in a high or low voltage on the chip itself!
The max7219/21 series is pretty much that, only then the chip has a few extra functions build in, CMOS memory and the ability to set the brightness in 1/32 steps.
I have a bunch of Max7219 chips for when I’ll try to build the caution panels, but thats one to many Skills for me atm, want to learn more about it tho
