Someone mentioned a new 3D printer on the market. Full enclosure, basically plug and play. I tried to find the topic but am having no luck. Can someone remind me what the model is called?
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I have it and itās pretty plug and play. A little pricey though.
Their P1S is cheaper and doesnāt really lose any necessary features.
That wasnāt it but looks like a great alternative. Thanks!
The one I remember seeing was all black, and the filament spool wasnāt visible, I donāt think (so likely hung on the back).
Was it this one?
Creality K1?
Iām considering it myself, but now @Fridge made me look at that BambuLabs printerā¦! Damn! 
Edit.
Just saw that my favorite printer pusher here in Norway is expecting some Bambu printers next month. Yes, pricey. Almost twice as much as the K1, but MAN, those specsā¦!
And it has the extra option of 4 spool switcher.
I wonder if that will allow me to print text in layersā¦?
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Looking for stuff about Bambu and found this vid that I thought was good.
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Of course Norm tested the Bambuā¦
Look at the dice he printed with number inlays.
Iām thinking inlaid panel textā¦!
I need one!
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That device is awesome! And you can chain multiple spool switches together. Up to 4 I think :-).
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That was the one! But these are all intriguing options.
Imagine building a panel with transparent layers, then black and lastly grey, and maybe white over the textā¦!
And then add a printed frame around the panel, with space for LED stripsā¦!
Oooooh! Me wanna!
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Iāll add a plug for Prusa, their stuff works very well out of the box, minimum fiddling and tinkering. Use their profiles and donāt attempt to reinvent the wheel. Iāve built their kit, but assume their pre-built units are the same way.
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Check out the CMYK spools and the LED panel that you can put behind them.
But yeah. With your design, you could do a warning panel āpretty easilyā 
Do FDM printers do transparency filament well?
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Wow! Thatās seriously cool!
Not really. The print is opaque but disperse light really well, so I think it will work well for panel lighting.
The video with the clickbaity title āDonāt buy theseā deals with the pros and cons of Prusa vs. Bambu really well, I think.
He compares the Prusa to a Toyota. It will work, forever. The Bambu is a Tesla Model S. The focus of the video is to recommend a first printer for someone oblivious to 3D printing, and he ends up showing the Bambu P1P.
But he has a print farm with Prusas and that should tell us somethingā¦
Norm from Tested added that he thought Bambu is what DJI is for quad copters. Really good, looks good, works great with great performance, but locked in.
Prusa canāt match the performance, yet, but OTOH you can fix it yourself should it ever break and you can mod it to your heartās content.
Canāt go wrong with either one, I think.
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Yeah. The Prusa is a solid choice. And the fix-ability of the device is important.
I was worried but parts for the X1 (or P1P) but the BambuLabs has a ton of parts are reasonable prices online. The problem occurs if BambuLabs ever folds or melts away: how long can I expect parts? For the Prusa, there will always be clones and parts available.
A couple of other issues with the X1 (and P1P):
- Filament, if it does not come from BambuLabs requires tweaking and calibration. Filament spools from Bambo labs have an RFID tag attached that tells the system what to set the parameters to. Not a bit deal.
- Second filament issue is with the AMS. If you have a non-BambuLabs spool, it may or may not work in the AMS - depending on the size of the spool and what it is made of. The AMS has rollers that the spool ā¦ rolls on ā¦ and if it is made from cardboard or is of a dimension that doesnāt fit 100%, you may have issues. There is a Hydra AMS upgrade you can print that solves this.
- The poop shoot. When switching filament, there is an area at the back of the printer where it will bleed out what is in the nozzle and then cut or clear the nozzle. This creates a filament poop bundle that falls out of the back of the machine. Need to keep this area clear or it can cause problems.
- Last one has to do with the removable bed. You need (ie: must) use a glue stick to cover the print plate as the print can stick to the plate too well. Yeah. Itās very hard to get the print off of the plate unless you use a glue stick coat. Which is weird? It can damage the plate if you donāt use a glue stick.
But that AMS is absolutely awesome. I am printing the Hydra upgrade later this week. Key amazing part of the AMS:
- It has replaceable desiccant bags in it - so your filament stays dry for a long time. I printed 6+ months ago, and then last week turned it one and, bam, strait perfect print out of the box. Usually I would be concerned about the dryness of the filament.
- Taking advantage of the multi-material feature, you can use a softer support material with a print. So - regular filament for the main part of the print, softer support material for the supports, usually making it easier to get the supports off of the print.
I should say that the Prusa can do this too, I think, with itās multi-material module. I really like the Prusa and would have bought the Mk.4 but when I ordered the X1 there were no rumours that it was on itās way. But I am also very happy with the X1.
I started with a Creality Ender 3, upgraded that with bits and bobs. It was a good printer but it was work to get a good first layer and print. You need an enclosure for it (drafts and temperature) and it needed to be pre-heated (to remove warping/lifting of the first layer as the print went on). I moved up to the ā¦ I dontā remember what the model was but it was the kickerstart one that Creality did. It was good, had bed leveling but it still needed an enclosure + heater. Biggest issue that made me mad with that one was the power switch that was likely to catch fire. I never liked that one. Finally got frustrated enough to look at the Pursa Mk3 with itās upgrades ā¦ but the X1 was just new, getting good reviews, and ājust workedā
I read that Add:North filament works great on the X1 and they supply config files for all their filaments. I use a lot of their RigidX CF infused PETG. In fact, add:north sell Bambu printersā¦
Yeah, PETG can fuse with glass plate beds too, unless you use glue or tape.
Need to google that oneā¦
I considered it, but didnāt want another bed slinger.
So, I just ordered an X1Cā¦! 
Too early to call it a x-mas present?
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Bah! I meant to insert the link for forgot!
https://www.printables.com/model/392134-hydra-ams-enhanced-bambu-lab-ams
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Is this still a good 3D printer?
is a printing resolution of 0.1mm good?
Yes. My Bambu Lab X1C does 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle (0.06 with a 0.2 nozzle). 0.1mm means 10 layers per milimeter and is definitely good enough.
Anycubic has a good rep. Let me do some googling in that printer.
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Yeah, Iād say thatās a very good entry level printer.
And at that price itās a steal.
Users seem happy with it.
For comparison, hereās the equivalent Bambu Lab printer. Itās got some cool features but it also cost twice as muchā¦
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