Here’s kind of the general break down I use for how to make things explode with the Harrier.
I have a Cobra M5 joystick, so basically a throttle wheel, a POV hat, and the equivalent of 23 buttons over 3 shifted modes. I use the following:
POV Hat - POV
Trigger 1 - Cannon/Sidewinder Trigger
Trigger 2 - Pickle butoon
Throttle - Throttle
Mode 1 VSTOL
4 way Hat Down - Nozzle Down
4 way Hat Up - Nozzle Up
Button X (no clue what it’s referred by the joystick) - Wheel brakes
Pinky Button - NWS steering
Mode 2 Non-VSTOL
4 way hat - trim
Button X - waypoint advance
Pinky Button - Undesignate
I use the keyboard (I get rid of all the LWIN, Rshift, etc. modifiers, just plain keys) for everything else. Off the top of my head:
TDC - ,./; and ’ for TDC down
Sensor Select - yuij and n for SSw down
Cage - C
Aim-9 - D and the only shifted combo I have LShift+D for expand AIM-9 mode (never needed it).
I find this works really well for me, as I hate using a hat switch to slew the TGP.
In reference to getting used to the idea of how the Harrier prosecutes targets being different then the A-10C:
I don’t think of SOI or SPI or anything else. They are workable terms, but I personally find they create ambiguity due to how the Harrier does things versus the Hawg. The words “sensor of interest” are perfectly fine, but in this context we have an understanding and expectation what a SOI is/does/is used that might not match the way the Harrier does things. I use the following general theory to fight the Harrier:
I personally bring up the DMT page on the right MFD and set up my laser codes (if applicable) as soon as I’m airborne and trimmed out for whatever I’m doing (climbing to the next point, level and cruising, whatever). I’m a big trim guy. From there I’ll set it to NITE mode. First off I can see the nav display as well as the time and distance to my waypoints (as I’ll be in A2G mode in a few seconds and loose that). Additionally I can still see what input mode I’m in (INS, TV, LST) which is critical here in a bit.
In the left MFD I’ll go to stores and then using the armament panel I’ll setup my weapons. I drop a lot of bombs in Auto, in fact it’s my favorite mode. Bombs are set for immediate fuzing unless I’ve got a reason otherwise. Rockeyes are based on time of fall, PRI is 1.2 seconds post drop to burst, and OP is 4 seconds post drop to burst. This is based on how high I’ll be working (rolling in from above 10K or so, you’re probably gonna want OP unless you really like to press your attacks in deep). I always try to drop bombs in pairs if possible, the Harrier is light and asymmetric loading will create a lot of roll. Rockets are light enough it doesn’t matter so I’ll shoot those single for Zuni’s as they’re accurate and will actually kill something (considering they hit like a 155mm artillery shell in real life that’s not a surprise). 2.75" rockets are always fired in pairs of pods at a minimum just to have a chance to kill something (DCS lack of blast and frag effects really nerfs them). Precision weapons, well that’s why I have trim mapped. Single drops and lots of trimming. I’ve learned to get two Mavericks off in short order just to avoid trimming, lol.
If I’m running Mavericks, I’ll make sure they’re selected and cooling as soon as I can. Nothing like twiddling your thumbs in a holding pattern while you wait for them to cool down.
Once I have my stores setup I usually have the left MFD setup as EW. If I’ve got a ways to travel I’ll pop back into NAV mode, but otherwise I’ll stay in A2G. The last nav point prior to expected contact is Fence In, and master arm is flipped, and ordinance selected.
Now onto the actual process of blowing things up, first up:
Locate - This can be the mark 1 eye ball, a smoke marker, a JTAC lasing, whatever. The DMT TV mode provides a 6x magnifier for day time operation, and works pretty well to be able to parse out targets if you have a general idea where to start to look. FLIR should give you a pretty big leg up, but unfortunately with the current FLIR implementation it’s not as big a help. For the LST if it’s not finding the laser, you probably need to change the code (remember weight on wheels resets it). The LST will detect the spot out past 13NM and pretty much anywhere in the HUD field of view (that’s just based on my experience).
Mark - I find this part critical, and it’s one I’ve seen a lot of folks seem to skip on youtube. If you located your target with the LST then you’re in luck, it’s already been marked. So why is marking so important? First off all the systems in the Harrier that help you drop ordinance are based on having a marked target to work with. Secondly the Harrier doesn’t have a TAD like the Hawg to help you keep your situational awareness up. Marking a target puts an icon on your HSI (or whatever the nav display is called, it escapes me at the moment), helping you to keep track of where you are in relation to your target. Lastly it REALLY helps you fly good ground attack profiles regardless of how you’re dropping (CIP or Auto), it gives you a direction and distance to your target point on the HUD for instance.
Can you fly a perfectly acceptable pop up attack without a marked target? Absolutely, but its way easier to have the info on your HUD, rather then frantically trying to locate your target, guesstimate range, and approach angle. I find it invaluable for re-attacks. Remember you may well be exiting the area at over 8 NM a minute, and having a marker on the nav display makes it a snap to be able to setup for another run. Additionally the HUD will display the marker, again dramatically simplifying the re-attack.
I use the INS marking method quite a bit, put the flight path marker on the target (or general area) and designate. If I have time and altitude I’ll probably switch to TV mode, flip the right MFD out of NITE, and use it to refine my mark point to exactly where I want it.
One thing to note the INS and TV marker don’t seem to have perfect stability, particularly on a re-acttack. Be prepared to have to adjust the marker in TV mode if you need that kind of precision.
Attack - People with way more qualifications then I have, have written plenty on this part. So this just what works for me.
Bombing in Auto mode works great IF you have a STATIC target on something flat. It works pretty dang well if your have a STATIC target on something that’s mildly inclined. You seeing the pattern? Currently the DMT doesn’t track moving targets, so if you’re prey is on the run, you’ll have to go CIP. The ARBS does a bunch of fancy math to figure out for any given pitch and speed when the best time to drop the bomb is based on target range. It can’t fix azimuth errors however. As such you can be at a vertical dive, toss bombing, or transitioning between the two, and so long as you’re lined up horizontally with the target the ARBS will do a pretty credible job of landing a bomb (in range practice, lobbing MK 81’s directly onto tanks using a 30 degree dive and then a hard pull till release is boringly doable).
For point targets and non-precision munitions (say killing a parked T-72 with a pair of MK 82’s) tactical situation permitting, I’ll roll in, put the flight path marker on the target (this can be in a very shallow dive at distance, but if find it works best around a 20-40 degree dive), ensure wings level, and then pull up until release. Putting the flight path marker on the target for a second (or usually the HUD symbol for the target as I can’t see it that far out), eliminates azimuth errors. I find this to be tremendously accurate, easy to fly, and it works in any weather/lighting so long as you have an accurate target mark. In one of my training missions the conditions are start time 0200, 2K foot solids clouds based at 5K, and it’s raining. It is plain crummy weather and flying. I use the JTAC to mark the targets while I stay under the clouds on approach, the LST to get my mark, and then I’ll immediately climb out of the cloud cover, getting out of small arms and light AA range (did I mention ZSU-23’s every where?). I can then execute the entire attack from a safe altitude, releasing before I break the cloud deck. Only having to descend (at a safe distance) to get a new LST mark.
I’ve used this technique even without a laser spot as well. Using the INS mark method and the DMT I’ve setup my target for a safe distance, then climbed out above the clouds and rolled in. At night you can use the FLIR and INS marking to setup your attack. With the DMT being less helpful in low light, you may have to press your attack through the cloud layer to verify you have the correct target though.
For Rockeyes, a couple things to pay attention to: First if you are toss/loft bombing, your impact pattern is probably going to be long of the target, so don’t do it until DCS get’s Rockeye’s working better. Secondly the start of your pattern is the calculated impact point for auto bombing, so set your mark a little short. Third setting your fuzing to burst to late and your bomb lawndarts, to early and you’ll be way short.
Rockets are simple, CIP delivery, wait for the range clock to start to wind, don’t run into the ground. A Zuni will one shot most armored vehicles, and even with the range clock just barely starting to wind down, it’ll hit dead on the pipper. If you pay attention you’ll even see the pipper move left and right to take into account the side of the aircraft the pod is on. Again don’t run into the ground. 2.75" rockets, are WAY less accurate, and really don’t do much damage. Fire a bunch of them, don’t worry too much about the pipper being spot on, the rockets not going there anyway (expect by pure luck). Also, don’t run into the ground.
If you’re not self lasing, you can drop a GBU however you like, CIP, AUTO, DSL even. All you’ve got to do is get in in the basket. I usually do AUTO, but I’ve played with rolling in and punching it off in CIP from way high, works like a champ too. With a JTAC your laser source is ground level’ish, so feel free to drop through the clouds, works like a charm.
Mavericks have been covered here pretty extensively, so I wont rehash them much. I’ll add that you can reasonably expect to get 2 off into a group or targets of vehicles on a single run with some practice. Three is doable but difficult, and leaves you with an asymmetric load to fly with. I’ve never even got close to 4 off, but I’m not saying it can’t be done. Mavericks are you’re stand off weapon, stay back. If all YOU can get that day is one per pass, then 1 per pass it is. That’s why trim exists. Resist the temptation to bore in trying to get one more off the rail. Shooting Mavericks in the Harrier feels a lot more like the A-10A, it can be a struggle to lock targets sometimes.
Gun runs, not gonna lie I miss the Hawg for this one. The GAU-12 is actually a pretty solid gun, that just unfortunately has to compete with the big boss the GAU-8 and the A-10 with PAC. Currently without the ability to modify the range clock settings, you get a little closer then you need to, and break off a little sooner then need be with the gun. However you are also usually rocketing in at between 450-550 knots instead of stately cruising in at 250 knots. So first off, don’t run into the ground. Second the plane will kick off to the left about half a pipper’s width after the first round is fired, so anticipate for this and aim right a hair. Lastly PAC doesn’t exist, so be prepared for your rounds to go all over the place if you can’t keep the pipper on target.
Re-Attack - Odds are you didn’t kill the entire tank company in one pass, so you have to re-attack. The Harrier is fast and climbs fast too, so setting up is a piece of cake. However don’t rush! If you need to spend an extra minute changing weapons or switching settings, take it! Unlike the A-10 you can easily be back at your IP in less then a minute. It sucks make a great second attack run, and half way in realize you didn’t set things up because you got in a hurry. Now if you need to take that extra minute, don’t just hurtle along at 480 knots TAS away from the target. That’s 8 NM you have to make up. Be smart and either learn how to fly a pattern and work the MFD’s or take things in 30 second chunks so you don’t get to far out of position.
Well this turned out way longer then I planned, but hopefully someone will find it of use.