The reason is that they used cheap ass pots and this was one of the ways they tried to fix the bad hardware in the software.
Hey Jedi, The new version of the Logitech X-56 is the best HOTAS I have used yet. Throttle, stick and ministicks are perfectly smooth and precise.
I finally have ordered Thrustmaster T16000m FCS HOTAS.
The stick is a bit poor with only one hat, but the throttle has enough cool stuff to make up for it - analog mini-stick with button action (ideal for TDC), two hats, one 8-way pov switch, rotary knob (radar elevation), rocker axis and few other things. Actually it looks a bit like Hornet throttle, albeit it’s not split.
But most importantly the set sports Hall-effect sensors for axis (the same used in Warthog HOTAS), so the precision should be good.
The precision is good, but with most of the buttons on the base, the stick design is poor. The opposite can be said for the throttle, which satisfies “hands on” in the acronym HOTAS. When I was without use of my left foot, I use the FCS throttle with a CH Fighter Stick and was good to go.
I saw the X-56 when it came out but I read mixed reviews which put me off. For example, out of over 100 reviews on Amazon it gets only 3 out of 5 stars.
Well, my b-day is coming up so maybe I will get an X-56 or a T16000m. I need new pedals, too, as the ones I have are part of the G940 and can’t be used separately.
I think its always going to be the same argument. X-56 is disposable vs Warthog witch is High Maintenance. I have used both for long periods of time. My last X-55 was awesome but then the throttle broke. I found it to be a good stick. I like it and I recommend it. You get what you pay for. My first X-52 lasted years without problems and so did my X-52 pro. However, that is not everyones experience and not my experience with the X-55.
Thrustmaster has some problems but its a good stick. I have two and an extra base. This hobby is important to me and therefore I’m all in. That said, sometimes I like the centering on the Saitek better…
I think if you have not tried the X-56 it is worth your time and money to try one. KEEP the receipt.
I have this setup, and like others have said, the joystick is lacking buttons/hats, but I’ve made it work. The throttle has a great setup of buttons and hats. The stick is very precise also.
I’ve mentioned it before, but this subject matter is discussed in detail by the pilots who fly (flew) them on the Fighter Pilot Podcast. Educate and entertain yourself during your normally mundane daily commute. I’ve listened to the two CASE 1 episodes a few times. Much LSO talk within as well.
For instance, I learned that the normal scan is ball, lineup, then AOA.
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@JediMaster you are correct but Logitech updated to kit this year with the promise that they have corrected the flaws. So far that’s been my experience for what it’s worth.
I decided to try them out, they arrive Friday. We’ll see how my experience goes.
Just to clarify, there is hall-effect sensor used only for X and Y axis on the stick. The rest are standard pots.
Good luck. I hope you have the same experience that I have. But now that you’ve spent the money I should hold my head in shame and admit a problem that I had initially but failed to mention above. (I did state it in my mini-review of the kit a couple of months ago.) Some buttons on the throttle were randomly actuating uncommanded. I put the throttle on a USB hub and never had the issue since.
My 940’s range wheels on the throttle will change output depended on throttle position because the wiring is too tight. Also the pot in the pedals will loosen over time and require disassembly and reseating or it will spike horribly.
So I’m no stranger to bizarre behavior.
My confidence grows on Deck landings.
I totally got “Fix the low before the slow” Fixing the slow would mean putting the nose down. THis is not what you want to do when you are already low… So power up to fix the low… then you may fix the slow or go round…
Does adding power not make one faster?
It should make one higher if seeing the mighty doughnut.
Depends on where you are on the drag curve.
As angle of attack increases at low speeds, so does the total drag of the airframe. As thrust must overcome drag, to maintain speed, thrust must be increased to fly slower.
Somewhere out there in internet land is a documentary about Bob Hoover’s involvement in finding techniques to safety land a jet on a carrier. He found that the only way to do it within the limits of deck and cable was to fly behind the power curve. The nature of flying that way, see @Troll’s curve above, is that increasing pitch results in a faster sink rate and reducing pitch (eventually) results in a lower sink rate. The only useable control for sink rate at that point is the throttle. If the airplane is trimmed for the speed, small changes in throttle will be corrected by the stability of the plane.
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Maybe I’m doing it wrong, but I don’t even make corrections in pitch once I’m wings level after the base turn. If you trim it out on downwind you don’t even need to adjust the pitch. Just curious about the low before slow part. Is slow referring to too much AoA or actual speed? Probably missing something here, but if you are trimmed for the donut/in the bracket, and you reduce throttle your sink rate increases as speed drops. If you add power, the flight path marker rises toward the horizon, reducing sink rate and your speed increases. AoA remains constant, as long as you don’t make pitch corrections. Are the low before slow corrections referring to a non FBW aircraft?
Slow is too much angle. So to correct the low use power to correct the slow (or fast) use pitch.
Spend some time flying around the boat. Make the E come to the flight marker. Don’t chase it. Then put the marker on the deck and use the throttle to keep the E where you want it. I prefer to come a bit high.
Fix the low before the slow. If you are low and try to fix slow by putting the nose down… disaster will follow.