I am prepared to believe that!
Soldering these wires was NOT easy…! And I have soldered my fair share of wires, through the years.
Although @sobek’s suggestion that it’s fill, to make the wire softer, sounds plausible.
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Also, I have now tried my new audio solution.
It works great! The headphones aren’t the best quality available, but they are probably some of the easiest to adapt to the Rift S.
The ear cups barely touches the ear.
Sound is a lot better than the default audio and there’s little to no sound leakage.
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Hi, I didn’t know that this was possible, thanks a lot for sharing this DIY with us.
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Killing time at an airport (on company time), I browsed through the electronics shop and came across this Sennheiser HD100 headset.
It caught my attention because I thought maybe I could make them fit the Rift S…
And these days I have a 3D printer.
Removing the stops allows the speakers to slide off the rails.
Question is if I can copy this cross section with my 3D printer and make a clip that fits the Rift S Halo…?
I sat down with my CAD software and now I have produced this.
Will it work?
Let’s print and see…
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Good luck. Hope it works for you.
Wheels
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Oh I will make it work…! 
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3D printing is fun!!
CADding away on the computer, modelling something virtual and then build it into something physical is so incredibly rewarding!
Here are the parts with raft and supports, in the printing software.
For those who are unfamiliar with the world of 3D filament printing, the printer extrudes melted plastic and builds layer by layer, until the part is finished. The height of the layer determines the resolution of the print. This print has a layer height of .12mm. It will go as low as .08mm but such prints take much longer to print. Thin layers=many layers.
The printer can’t lay plastic in empty air. Well, it can, but the molten extruded plastic will sag. So the print software analyzes the 3D part for overhang that needs support and adds those where it deems appropriate. It also ads a “raft” around the parts to keep the print in place and stop it from warping as the plastic cools down.
Here’s the printed part.
The printed part with raft and supports removed.
Removing the support plastic is a bit like picking scabs and is, as such, strangely satisfying…!
The support structure is designed so it has minimal contact with the print part.
Some light sanding is needed to remove the contact points.
It fits! The speaker can slide up and down the rail and the assembly can slide back and forth on the Rift S halo. I just need to make a key for the retainer clip, so it won’t move in relation to the speaker rail.
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Nice!
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It is amazing to me how far 3D printing has come in just the last 5 years.
Wheels
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Indeed!
And my printer is more or less considered entry level, these days.
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Made some changes to the design and added a “key” for the clip.
This is the highest resolution, .08mm.
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Wow, those came out looking really nice.
Wheels
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Excellent work. I’d love to have even a portion of your talent for this stuff mate
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Instead of chopping off the cables, like I did last time, and risk not being able to solder them back toghether again, I made a housing for the cable to hide in… Well, it may not be the prettiest thing ever seen on a VR headset, but it’s better than lose cables hanging around. I also made small stops so the headset speakers won’t slide off.
The little knob on the back is just to keep the cables hanging on my back instead of my left shoulder.
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“If it’s ugly but it work… it’s not ugly. Or maybe it’s ugly but still… it works so, it’s ok.”
-Me
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Great work! Would you consider sharing this design? I actually picked up the HD100’s today with the intention of designing a mount myself to use them in my rift and you have already done it!
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