These are the simple ones without remote or mic.
They have one cable to each speaker and they have an angle adjustment at the headband joint…
Wonder if I can dismount the headband and attach the speakers to the halo…?
So, I cut the headband and bent it to a clamp that I covered in red heatshrink tube. I also covered the inside of the speaker body with thin sheet foam, red again to go with the red theme of the Koss headset
Soldering the leads from the headphones turned out to be a challenge…
Seems like there’s some fibre intertwined with the cobber. There are also two leads from each speakers, in the same insulation. I guess they are coated and that this coating must be removed to make the solder stick.
I twisted the wires and then applied the flame from a lighter. I increased the temp on my soldering iron to 400°C and the solder took to the wires!
The Rift S chord needs a better relief point. I tried strapping it to the forward part of the halo, but it interferes with the headphone.
Velcro to the aft halo will have to do, for now.
Maybe something like this could work?
My understanding is that the fibres are meant to prevent soldering (ie: repair). They are a pain in the arse unless you can separate them out from the wire. I may just be cynical but that is what my father told me they were and to watch out for them. He was into electronics and such from an early age.
Killing time at an airport (on company time), I browsed through the electronics shop and came across this Sennheiser HD100 headset.
It caught my attention because I thought maybe I could make them fit the Rift S…
And these days I have a 3D printer.
Here are the parts with raft and supports, in the printing software.
For those who are unfamiliar with the world of 3D filament printing, the printer extrudes melted plastic and builds layer by layer, until the part is finished. The height of the layer determines the resolution of the print. This print has a layer height of .12mm. It will go as low as .08mm but such prints take much longer to print. Thin layers=many layers.
The printer can’t lay plastic in empty air. Well, it can, but the molten extruded plastic will sag. So the print software analyzes the 3D part for overhang that needs support and adds those where it deems appropriate. It also ads a “raft” around the parts to keep the print in place and stop it from warping as the plastic cools down.
The printed part with raft and supports removed.
Removing the support plastic is a bit like picking scabs and is, as such, strangely satisfying…!
The support structure is designed so it has minimal contact with the print part.
Some light sanding is needed to remove the contact points.
It fits! The speaker can slide up and down the rail and the assembly can slide back and forth on the Rift S halo. I just need to make a key for the retainer clip, so it won’t move in relation to the speaker rail.