Koss Porta Pro.
Yes, makes you think Porta Potty.
These are the simple ones without remote or mic.
They have one cable to each speaker and they have an angle adjustment at the headband joint…
Wonder if I can dismount the headband and attach the speakers to the halo…?
Maybe I can bend the headband to form a clamp that allows it to slide along the halo?
Maybe cover it in heatshrink tube to avoid scratches on the halo plastic…
So, I cut the headband and bent it to a clamp that I covered in red heatshrink tube. I also covered the inside of the speaker body with thin sheet foam, red again to go with the red theme of the Koss headset 
And here it is!
Oculus Rift kosS
Need to route the cables and solder a 3.5mm jack.
Oh, I forgot.
I had to remove the plastic Display/USB chord hook on the left side of the halo. Need to secure the chord with something else…
Looking very nice there! 
What is that lock thingy in red? Do they flip up or detach?
The speaker can be tilted outward, and locked in this position. This is a regulation of the tightness of the fit, when it’s connected to the steel headband.
Soldering the leads from the headphones turned out to be a challenge…
Seems like there’s some fibre intertwined with the cobber. There are also two leads from each speakers, in the same insulation. I guess they are coated and that this coating must be removed to make the solder stick.
Any ideas?
@sobek
@TheAlmightySnark
@Navynuke99
?
Sometimes just sliding the soldering iron past the wire will remove the protective coating. Though I am not sure that’s what is going on with these wires. Have you tried this?
The fiber could be a filler to give the cable more flexibility. If it is not metallic, unwind the surrounding metal leads and clip it so it doesn’t get in the way of soldering.
Are the leads not insulated? If they are laquered, the laquer can be removed with the soldering iron or by heating it with a lighter (briefly, the laquer will burn off almost immediately).
Thanks for your input.
I tried burning off the lacquer with a butane torch… Maybe I burned the wires? Will try a lighter.
The fibres I mentioned is woven in with the cobber strands… Removing it is really hard to do.
Not the best soldering job I’ve done.
Not the worst either…
The Rift S chord needs a better relief point. I tried strapping it to the forward part of the halo, but it interferes with the headphone.
Velcro to the aft halo will have to do, for now.
Maybe something like this could work?
Here are some shots of the finished installation.
My understanding is that the fibres are meant to prevent soldering (ie: repair). They are a pain in the arse unless you can separate them out from the wire. I may just be cynical but that is what my father told me they were and to watch out for them. He was into electronics and such from an early age.
I am prepared to believe that!
Soldering these wires was NOT easy…! And I have soldered my fair share of wires, through the years.
Although @sobek’s suggestion that it’s fill, to make the wire softer, sounds plausible.
Also, I have now tried my new audio solution.
It works great! The headphones aren’t the best quality available, but they are probably some of the easiest to adapt to the Rift S.
The ear cups barely touches the ear.
Sound is a lot better than the default audio and there’s little to no sound leakage.
Hi, I didn’t know that this was possible, thanks a lot for sharing this DIY with us.
Killing time at an airport (on company time), I browsed through the electronics shop and came across this Sennheiser HD100 headset.
It caught my attention because I thought maybe I could make them fit the Rift S…
And these days I have a 3D printer.
Removing the stops allows the speakers to slide off the rails.
Question is if I can copy this cross section with my 3D printer and make a clip that fits the Rift S Halo…?
I sat down with my CAD software and now I have produced this.
Will it work?
Let’s print and see…
Good luck. Hope it works for you.
Wheels
Oh I will make it work…!
3D printing is fun!!
CADding away on the computer, modelling something virtual and then build it into something physical is so incredibly rewarding!
Here are the parts with raft and supports, in the printing software.
For those who are unfamiliar with the world of 3D filament printing, the printer extrudes melted plastic and builds layer by layer, until the part is finished. The height of the layer determines the resolution of the print. This print has a layer height of .12mm. It will go as low as .08mm but such prints take much longer to print. Thin layers=many layers.
The printer can’t lay plastic in empty air. Well, it can, but the molten extruded plastic will sag. So the print software analyzes the 3D part for overhang that needs support and adds those where it deems appropriate. It also ads a “raft” around the parts to keep the print in place and stop it from warping as the plastic cools down.
Here’s the printed part.
The printed part with raft and supports removed.
Removing the support plastic is a bit like picking scabs and is, as such, strangely satisfying…!
The support structure is designed so it has minimal contact with the print part.
Some light sanding is needed to remove the contact points.
It fits! The speaker can slide up and down the rail and the assembly can slide back and forth on the Rift S halo. I just need to make a key for the retainer clip, so it won’t move in relation to the speaker rail.
