DIY rudder pedals

#41

It should be enough. The ones I used were overkill. Had to put up 2mm steel plates between the axes, to shield the other sensors…

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#42

Yes, it’s the center/neutral position. It’s really the “operating point” or “bias point”. It’s an active device, so it has a steady state current running through in the neutral position.
Anyway, it doesn’t really matter; you’ve got it built and running!
You’ve got an awesome build there! Nice job. What is the tube on the right?

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#43

Tube is a collimator for an L band laser that I am using for targeted SETI in the Water Hole.

Just kidding, its just a polycarbonate rod that I am using to support the Frankenstein hall sensor mount.

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#44

LOL! The first half of that sentence had me thinking “WOW!” – the second half had me saying “huh?”

Looks good. Looks way better than the hacks that I throw together. Electronics I’ve got figured out, but when it comes time to physically mount stuff – I tend to grab whatever is handy and make it work. I had to rescue my Simped rudder pedals when the hall sensor gave up, so I used a Bodnar board and a hall sensor tacked on with blue-tac. The idea was that I’d go back and package it after I got it working…that was about 18 months ago…


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#45

Aaah! I wanted those… But they went out of production before I could afford them,

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#46

Goblin: The Water Hole is a ‘quiet place’ on the electromagnetic spectrum around 1.6Ghz where SETI used to look for alien signals. Sorry, joke was a little arcane.
Thats a nice complex rig you put together there. I just wanted some rudder pedals to play Rise of Flight and its turned into an all-winter project.

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#47

That always happens. Things sound simple on the surface; then you start digging in and realize that it’s going to take a lot longer than the weekend to get your project done.

Time well spent, though.

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#48

Yeah, I like the mechanics. I’m going to have to update the toe-brake sensors pretty soon. The way they work is the pedal has a protrusion on the back side, so when you press the brake down the protrusion presses into a compressible material. The compressible material has lost most of its elasticity, so after releasing the pedal, the brake is slow to disengage as the material slowly returns to unpressed.

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#49

What about a racquetball?

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#50

Goblin:
How did you rig the Hall sensors for the toe brakes?

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#51

Toll, et. al.;
Is there a more comprehensive guide for MMJoy, other than the 6 page one at GitHub? I (think) its setup right, but I would the ‘quiescent zone’ to run from say 49% to 51% so I don’t have to feather the rudder pedals into a zero-rudder position…

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#52

Don’t think so, but I know @Fridge will do a writeup of his latest build, that probably will help a lot of people who want to build stuff.

But it sounds like you want a deadzone around center of the axis? Have you found out how to calibrate the sensor in MMJoy? You can do a lot of tweaking there. Could you perhaps post a pic of the axis setup page so I can point out the finer details… :slight_smile:

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#53

Yeah. I hope to get that all together next week. I have to/want to take a look at axis controls next week as well. I still want to wire up my old Saitek throttle quadrant that ran into USB issues a few years ago. I miss those extra axis for WWII and helicopter flying.

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#54

Heres what MMJoy looks like. What else do I need to do w/ the Rudder Pedal input to make it behave calmly at the midpoint?

THanks
Gordo

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#55

Green ring.
Increase the DZ (Dead Zone) Center. This will kill the signal around the center position.

Yellow ring.
You may want to put in a x2 or x4 filter, to even out the signal as well.

Blue square.
Use the calibration helper to find min, max and center positions of the signal.
Or you can use the Auto Calibration drop down to select auto w center (I think it is). This will make the controller save the last obtained min and max values, and use the middle as a center. I normally use the calibration helper which will set the values.

You may also want to change the axis Assignment from slider to perhaps Z axis. This is the direct x assignment which is the label, if you will. The Slider label is normally an axis without a center. I’m not sure if this has any bearing on how the axis is read.

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#56

@troll , you are definitely artist… if those are rings and squares !? :stuck_out_tongue: :wink:

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#57

I am!

I think you will find that my figures adhere to the definitions found in Websters dictionary:

Sense 3b

and

Sense 3b

I have earned my nickname… :stuck_out_tongue:

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#58

Sorry it took so long to reply. I made a ‘J’ bracket out of a strip of aluminum to suspend the sensor in the axis of rotation. Here’s a pic (please ignore the dog hair):


The blue tac is actually a pretty good shaft coupler, allowing slight lateral movements without loading the shaft too much. Excessive lateral forces on the shaft will decrease the life of the sensor.
My intention is to make a PCB daughter card to plug directly into the Budnar board and the pedals plug into the daughter card.

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#59

Hmm…:thinking: I like your thinkin’. :smiley:

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