DIY rudder pedals


#41

It should be enough. The ones I used were overkill. Had to put up 2mm steel plates between the axes, to shield the other sensors…


#42

Yes, it’s the center/neutral position. It’s really the “operating point” or “bias point”. It’s an active device, so it has a steady state current running through in the neutral position.
Anyway, it doesn’t really matter; you’ve got it built and running!
You’ve got an awesome build there! Nice job. What is the tube on the right?


#43

Tube is a collimator for an L band laser that I am using for targeted SETI in the Water Hole.

Just kidding, its just a polycarbonate rod that I am using to support the Frankenstein hall sensor mount.


#44

LOL! The first half of that sentence had me thinking “WOW!” – the second half had me saying “huh?”

Looks good. Looks way better than the hacks that I throw together. Electronics I’ve got figured out, but when it comes time to physically mount stuff – I tend to grab whatever is handy and make it work. I had to rescue my Simped rudder pedals when the hall sensor gave up, so I used a Bodnar board and a hall sensor tacked on with blue-tac. The idea was that I’d go back and package it after I got it working…that was about 18 months ago…



#45

Aaah! I wanted those… But they went out of production before I could afford them,


#46

Goblin: The Water Hole is a ‘quiet place’ on the electromagnetic spectrum around 1.6Ghz where SETI used to look for alien signals. Sorry, joke was a little arcane.
Thats a nice complex rig you put together there. I just wanted some rudder pedals to play Rise of Flight and its turned into an all-winter project.


#47

That always happens. Things sound simple on the surface; then you start digging in and realize that it’s going to take a lot longer than the weekend to get your project done.

Time well spent, though.


#48

Yeah, I like the mechanics. I’m going to have to update the toe-brake sensors pretty soon. The way they work is the pedal has a protrusion on the back side, so when you press the brake down the protrusion presses into a compressible material. The compressible material has lost most of its elasticity, so after releasing the pedal, the brake is slow to disengage as the material slowly returns to unpressed.


#49

What about a racquetball?


#50

Goblin:
How did you rig the Hall sensors for the toe brakes?


#51

Toll, et. al.;
Is there a more comprehensive guide for MMJoy, other than the 6 page one at GitHub? I (think) its setup right, but I would the ‘quiescent zone’ to run from say 49% to 51% so I don’t have to feather the rudder pedals into a zero-rudder position…


#52

Don’t think so, but I know @Fridge will do a writeup of his latest build, that probably will help a lot of people who want to build stuff.

But it sounds like you want a deadzone around center of the axis? Have you found out how to calibrate the sensor in MMJoy? You can do a lot of tweaking there. Could you perhaps post a pic of the axis setup page so I can point out the finer details… :slight_smile:


#53

Yeah. I hope to get that all together next week. I have to/want to take a look at axis controls next week as well. I still want to wire up my old Saitek throttle quadrant that ran into USB issues a few years ago. I miss those extra axis for WWII and helicopter flying.