Please elaborate!
Hearing about other peoples projects is pure inspiration!
I’ll be more than happy to help you along.
The first thing you want to look at is availability of parts. Bearings, rods, springs etc. Do you need to order them or can you source them locally? Same goes for electrical components.
I would start with trying to get the basic mechanisms right first, the cam systems for the centering mechanism, the throttle throw distance, any notches for afterburners or idle detent(@Troll can teach you all about this 
).
Once you’ve got that worked out start by implementing the electronics. What kind of sensors do you want? HAL vs potentiometer, that sort of thing. Then how will you hook it up the computer? You could use a standard board like a Bodnar Board or use an Arduino or Teensy as a joystick.
All of these factors depend on your own skill though, how well can do you solder, program ,drill and design parts?
So, lots of questions, not a lot of answers right now
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Calling Mr. @gadget into this discussion.
Gadget has got some very interesting controller boards in the pipeline…
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Greetings @Mr.Tuesday…wasn’t that a Beatles song?…anyway…
Eliete Dangerous has a template for the Saitek/Logitek X-52 stick throttle that works quite well - good/logical assignment of axis/sliders/knobs/buttons. I mention this because it might give you some ideas as how you want to set things up. As you know, the ED pace environment means that controls are just enough different from standard aircraft controls to make things sometimes difficult.
I was planning on using an Arduino board, maybe start with the Arduino Uno, since I already have one and it’s solderless, then once I get everything working use a Arduino micro and solder stuff together. I wanted to start with the base, but I don’t know what to purchase, or really how to design it. Was planning on using pots, but I’ve never heard of HAL, so that could be something I’d have to consider. I already have a good idea of how I’m going to do the programming, if I don’t find something to use I can write it myself. Design is what I need to work on, I was thinking of basing it off of other people here who did the same project, but I haven’t found anything detailed enough. Chances are I didn’t look hard enough.
Always a good idea.
Seeing as I’m the guy using overturned Lowes buckets for my “sim pit”…I’m just going to wander off and bother somebody else…let’s see what my cats are doing… 
Shouldn’t you be in the pattern, instead of harassing new members? You have another 634 Successful Viggen landings to accomplish before I remove the support wheels.
Hall sensors or even better, TLE sensors, are really easy to use. I’ll even show you…
Contactless. High resolution.
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Which would you suggest? Is there a performance difference?
Gday @Mr.Tuesday & welcome to the forums
this is definitely the place to come for all the goodies and hot tips for young players…
you are sure to find the answer you’re looking for and the right minds to help you along.
the MMJoy PCB i’ve designed would be an excellent starting point for you
(if it were available) MMJoy PCB design
unfortunately with the current situation, lockdowns etc. progress has dwindled away a bit, but we are about to revisit it again to get our first test batch produced.
hopefully following that we will have a working production model to begin fabricating.
In the meantime, the ProMicro (arduino clones) and shift register dev boards are readily available on aliexpress and similar sites.
you can also find some walkthroughs on the tech here:
http://avimator.net/229wiki/index.php/Shift_Register
http://avimator.net/229wiki/index.php/TLE5010
Please note electronics is NOT my field, I have picked the brains of as many people whom I could to understand the minimum to produce my own switch panels etc.
I have written these guides as best i could to provide the information that anyone could understand (even myself) 
As discussed the MMJOY PCB doesn’t do anything particularly special compared to them, we were just trying to produce something very user friendly, whilst applying ourselves to the learning curve of PCB design
cheers
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TLEs are Hall effect sensors as well.
True, but not all Hall sensors are TLE sensors. 
Or, not all Hall sensors have digital output.
Terribly sorry for any confusion.
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Hello and welcome to Mudspike Tuesday.
For my projects I am going with Arduino Pro Micro boards and will use MMjoy2 as firmware. For further software refinements I will use UCR (Universal Controller Remapper) and JoyToKey.
Here are a couple of sites about MMjoy2:
The HotasDIY section on reddit.
I look forward to seeing your results.
Happy Simming
Hey, cool board!
Thanks for the sources, I’ll look through them.
Thanks for directing me to the DIY reddit, I’m posting there now.
[IABS/NS] I’ve got a DIY controller modification idea that I’d like some advice on.
Recently there has been some discussion in other threads about an axis control for the brake control found on the control sticks of Soviet MiGs (15 through at least 21) and various WWII fighters (IIRC Spitfire is one).
Currently the TMWK stick has a lever in the right position:
It actuates a button (seen as the gray piece at the base of the lever).
Might it be possible to replace that button with some sort of slider that would move back and forth.
I’m a Mech Egr so am a bit fuzzy on the whole electronic sensor aspect, but mechanically I am thinking of something like this:
Thoughts?
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Yeah… Could you fit a small extension to that warthog?
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I think there might be enough room underneath - if you flip the “sensor slider rail” thing from my drawing upside down, remove some of the handle at the bottom of the stick…
…or better yet:
might take less room.
I’m not going to do this with my one and only expensive TM WH stick…probably look for one on eBay.
Problem is that you won’t be able to tie this into the electrics of the Warthog.
You will need a separate controller board for this… So it will be very hard to fit a sensor and controller electronics inside the handle or base.
But If we could put a 3-4" extension, where these things could go…
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3-4" on the stick would be problem. Might one, add the contraption - cogged rail, gear and knob - to the base of the stick - mechanically hook it to the lever. Then run wires from the knob to the controller, mounted in its own box on the blue bucket (side or top). I assume that a USB plug attaches to the controller - that goes to the powered USB hub?
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