Compared to mine, yours is very neat and tidy. 
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Iâve unfortunately hit a very big bummer. The new PC starts, all blowers are running and the lights are on.
BUT! She is not booting and sending out any screen signals.
I have removed everything nonesential except the 2 SSDâs. No joy.
I will be going through this guide to see if I can get it to work:
Time to go to bed as I will have 9:30 to 20:00 workday ahead of me.
See you later.
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Check to make sure memory cards are well-seated . (Donât ask me how i know this)
Also , they often go through several boot cycles spontaneously to identify the memory on the first boot .
Even with no CPU or RAM, the mainboard should still get to POST where it will complain about whatâs missing.
True enough , but one poorly-seated memory card will cause no post at all . I shoehorned a 1070fe into my last pc , had to move some cables and no post . Sought help and one suggestion was to check ram .
Sure enough , the instant i opened the pc , i saw a stick (of 4) with one end displaced when i must have bumped it . Problem solved !
Well, if there can be any good news out of this , then it is that your MOBO has a set of diagnostic LEDâs on it. They are there explicitly for NO POST issues. The info on how to read them is in the Manual.
I took a quick look and the first thing you need to look for is any one light staying on far longer than the others . The are arranged in order , if I remember correctly it said : CPU->RAM->VGA->BOOT . If one stays on longer than others that is theorectically where the issue lies .
Manual has more detail but I thought I would put this part in my reply to give you something to start on that is fairly straight forward and simple .
Hope it helps, good luck and let us know .
It was one or more ram boards not seated correctly. PEWH!
Win 10 Pro is installed and comming up is intalling MB, GPU and SATA/ATA IDE board drivers.
Then connecting and setting up all of the screens and controllers.
I have one blargh point with the old PC. My speakers decided to become ill and it seems that they have killed the soundcircuits of my old mainboard. Now I have to find my other set of speakers. It is in one of the 11 moving boxes I have in the kitchen. If I remember correctly it is the one at the bottom in the back. Sigh!.
Well, some of it is going in the right direction.
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That is some serious issue if they damaged the mobo!
I have a 20+ year old Logitech 2.1 system that I use like once a month for 30 minutes, usually just use USB now. Although my mobos have had sound, Iâve never used them, still my had PCI Soundblaster X Fi (the original release) in my PC until last month. It still worked fine, but PCI is pretty much dead.
I could have bought a PCI Express one at some point in the last 15 years but I never got around to it and now it seems unimportant. After almost 30 years of having a discrete sound card, starting with the first Soundblaster (I never had the Adlib), I finally am no longer using one.
Major change of plans.
I intended to use the old PC for emails, surfing, nongame downloads and older games.
I was looking at getting another MB as it is not only sound that has died, but it randomly forgets how many screens I have connected. Sometimes it starts up with only one and after an undetermined time finds the rest of them. Annoying.
The real kicker is something that I forgot to consider. My new tower is to tall so I canât have it on top of the old one and I canât find any ATX towers with 2 or 3 5.25" bays that are small enough. Most of them are more than 42 cm high and my max with the new tower is 38cm. I picked the the new one because of 2 x USB2 and 2 x USB3 on the front.
So I will eventually determine if I can get Diablo II, Warcraft II and Starcraft to run on my new PC and if that is the case I will dump the old one.
Well you learn all of the time.
Happy Simming
I have not used any Creative stuff since I discovered that they where disabling things with their drivers for my new operating system at the time, instead of supporting the full feature set of the Soundblaster Live 5.1 Platinum.
I cannot remember what windows version at the time, but there was a guy who where creating a full featured driver set but very fast got a cease and desist order.
I havenât seen one internal sound card that didnât suffer from shielding issues. The interference from the rest of the computer is just too bad to not be audible. Somewhere along the way i was too fed up and switched to an external USB interface. Itâs way beyond what a normal user would spend on an audio interface since I occasionally do recording and i used it extensively for testing an audio plugin i developed. Still the noise headroom would simply be unachievable by a unit that places analog circuitry inside the PC.
I am mostly up and running.
Windows is up and running, DCS and Steam games are installed. Steel Beasts are being installed now.
I will begin installing controllers after work tomorrow
I had some issues with a PCI Express 2xSATA 1xIDE expansion board, I only have my BD writer connected to it now. I can read from it but have yet to try to use the write functions.
I am now using the 4 mainboard SATA ports for my 2 4TB drives and my ICY Dock DuoSwap MB971SP-B internal docking station. None of them was running stabely on the PCIE card.
I use the DuoSwap as I do not trust USB docking stations. I have had 3 HDDâs killed by them because they grew to hot by spinning the disks at full speed, from the moment power was plugged in until it was plugged out. It is not a pretty sound when that happens. A very expensive whine.
I have had a mishap and a failed repair of my modded T16000m.
The cap for the center 5 way switch fell off and in trying to put it back on with CA glue, I failed to turn it upside down, so glue got into the switch. Now Back and Center Push is stuck.
Time to replace that 5 way thingie, but I think I will wait until I am ready to add the same kind of mods to another T16000m, this time including an extension. I need to pull it apart anyhow as I want to have the same button layout for both Lefty sticks. Without extension as sidestick and with as center stick.
Do I remember how they are connected? Naeh, not really.
It is going in the right direction, so I am happy.
Happy Simming.
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Hmmm.
I have had simwithdrawal for a while. Breaking my T16000m back in the end of may and having had to prioritize other things afterwards.
I have only now found the time for repairing it and have just finished it. I am very happy! More coming about that in my T16000m thread.
I have also failed to tell how the upgrade project ended.
I was feeling somewhat down because I thought that I had to abandon the 2 PC project because of the to big cases. I really thought that what I had spent on the replacement mainboard and the dual pc stuff was gone out of the window.
That is until I got the Mainboard. It turned out to be a Micro ATX board and I could get a case in the right size for that. Yes! Back in business.
I got an Asrock 970M Pro3 AM3+ mainboard and a Cooler Master Elite RC-342-KKN6-U3 case.
I have decided to keep the GTX 970 in the new build together with the GTX 1070 and have put a GT 710 I had laying around into the old one.
The GT 710 only supports 2 screens but for the intended use that is okay.
I have dropped the use of the displayports because regardless of which one on either card I have used would randomly lose the connection to the screen. Probably because I have the PC back close to the wall and that is probably putting a downward pressure on the connectors. The PC has to be that close or I would not have access to the area to the left side of it.
I have also removed the front door from the Enforcer case as it was blocked by my desk. I could not open it fully.
The Cable jungle:
Oh yeah! I very much have that!
Even though that I have only connected the old PC to 2 screens, mic, sound, mouse, main keyboard and a powered 2 PC USB 3 switch/hub with 4 ports, the other PC is hocked up to 5 screens, mic, sound, mouse, 2 keyboards, trackball, the USB 3 switch, another powered USB 3 4 port hub (Mainly used for my WD Elements portable HDDâs), 3 powered 7 port USB 2 hubs, 9 different controllers and I havenât even hocked up my Pen Tablet and Elgato Stream Deck yet. And when they are done also the button and extension modded T16000m and homebuilt Collective. I am still undecided about whether I am going to add my rightie Warthesque grips to my Saitek Throttle Quadrant as a separate unit or making it a single Arduino unit.
For switching I have mentioned the 2 PC USB 3 switch/hub and I also use a HDMI switch and a 2 PC KVM switch with mic, sound, single screen, mouse and keyboard output.
At first I had my 2 keyboards and trackball connected to a 4 port hub, but I had to many random disconnect/reconnects. It runs more stable with only the mouse and keyboard connected to the KVM. It does however not take much movement of stuff on the desk disconnect/reconnects happens. Those USB connections are not the best in the world.
I am very happy that I am up and running again but I do have one gripe.
Even when it is shut down and only on net power, the old PC is sending out some kind of signal that the KVM switch reacts to. When I turn on the new PC and it gets to the point where I can log into Windows that signal makes it switch over to the other PC and I have to switch it back manually and then I have to wait until it finds the mouse and keyboard again. It is very annoying and I will be getting around to ask Asrock what I need to change in the BIOS to change that. It may also be that the Asus board in the new PC has a BIOS setting that will make the USB presence more persistent while booting up, so it wonât lose the signal. I will ask Asus about that at some point.
It is great to have stuff running more smoothly.
Happy Simming
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