NVIDIA RTX 3000 series

There’s Open Source Ray Tracing that does the same thing without the need to use nVidia’s API therefore removing the RTX 20/30 GPU Requirement.

Outside of that, the RTX20/30 GPUs only offer DLSS, which uses a prebuild profile by nVidia’s AI Super Computer and is included in drivers, and tuned locally by the tensor cores on the RTX20/30 GPU.

Outside of that, those tensor cores don’t do anything else. Gaming Wise.

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The RT in Metro Exodus I thought was pretty good. The Crysis Remastered titles, not so much. That’s the difference between bolt-on and designed in, really.

Try Quake II RTX. Still old textures and models, but the lighting…wow.

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RTX is great. Playing at 4K at a great framerate, what’s not to like? If you just play the flightsims and only flightsims then not much use, but it’s for gamers. Millions of gamers.

Does DCS even have an Nvidia profile?

It does not. Blackshark 2 does :wink:

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Well, I’m out then - Black Shark 1 for life! :shark: :wink:

I would say that something like an AI upscaler algorithm like DLSS, and even the VR DLSS 2 stuff, is not very real-world suited for flight sim sort of games. As simmers want things in the foreground sharp, and we want the distance aliased, and it just means it’s not a good natural fit to the weirdly good way things like DLSS work. Something like upscaling and algorithms like TAA seem to work better.

Ray tracing in SU7 for MSFS? @smokinhole will probably jump on board now with VR controller support :smile:

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Alicia Silverstone Reaction GIF

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**me**
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No helos as yet (not officially, due Q2 2022 as DLC), no blade element theory, still lacking 3rd party Boeings with any depth, plus we’ve never had a major MSFS update like SU7 without an emergency hotfix a week later. I like it, but keeping it real. :slight_smile:

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Post mortem, with the new PSU installed, all is well. I am breathing a sigh of relief that the 3080 seems unscathed. I took the time to replace all of the cables with the new ones included with the PSU. Flew a couple of missions in the Tomcat in VR and as a benefit, the new PSU seems quieter. Thanks to those whom offered help :beers:

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Fantastic to hear! Yeah, over the years, the PSU always seems to be the first thing that goes south on me with these gizmos. Usually it’s my sign to upgrade (at about 3-4 years) - like NOW! – a new box with a 3080Ti is being “burned in” for me as I type this.

Felt forced to do the “low budget” PC with High-Dollar GPU route, swapping a few things out and, in the end, having two boxes running. Which is cool I guess.

I’ve done this in years past - put the old one out to pasture; just using it for everyday stuff - I had enough PC to run Windows (even today) over a decade ago. Flight sims not so much.

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Oh that is Great News!!! And Smart upgrade to a Powerful PSU considering The Power Draw modern GPU’s are Demanding

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That’s great news…a big sigh of relief, I’m sure!

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RTX on… lol (I reject the whole premise of that guys eye wear…)

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“Cut the rims off two bottle caps, connect with a subscale model train bridge and some glue…voila!!!”

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I think his glasses really compliments his hairdo! His shirt is fabulous as well!

BTW I’m a huge fan of DLSS … really does well in Battlefield 2042! First game I’ve ever needed it in.

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PSU Circuitry actually degrade faster than anything else in your system due to simple wear and tear, once a circuit on a rail goes, the entire thing goes with it. Split Rails would often overload a rail and blow out both in the 12v line. which is why they say dont get a cheap PSU with split rails for gaming.

I always buy overhead, if a GPU recommends 700w I usually go 150w above it, as the power output degrades over time, eventually that 850, starts to only be able to put out 700w, and then eventually it will blow the rail when it can’t put out enough for the GPU.

Buying a 1000w PSU does not mean it will put out 1000w 24/7 during uptime, a PSU will only ever put out what’s drawn from it, so other than the up front price, there’s no harm in paying the extra cash for extended life from overhead.

plus if you buy a unit designed for 1000+w and only use 600w (60%) of that, the unit will operate cooler as it’s not producing DC at maximum capacity, therefore last longer and not degrade as quickly as say a 750w PSU that’s being asked to put out 99% of it’s capacity for extended periods of time.

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Zactly! I went with a 1000w this time for those very reasons.

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Plus upcoming Nvidia 4000 series looks pretty thirsty - maybe up to 450w…

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new PC, cool I mean noice! :+1:

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