Replica WW1 Hardware/Peripherals - vrsimpits.com

Hey All! Longtime forum lurker and first-time poster here; I wanted to share a project that I’ve been working on that might interest some of you.

I’m a massive WW1 aviation geek, and with the recent release of IL2 Flying Circus (if you haven’t tried it, it’s the most incredible VR experience I know of), I’ve been working on developing a variety of WW1 hardware, starting with a joystick grip modeled on the Sopwith Camel.

If you’re interested in the backstory behind this grip, or want to see development updates on my other projects as they happen, feel free to check out my build log on the IL2 forum linked below. The next projects coming up are a Tampier Throttle quadrant (such as used on Sopwiths and many other WW1 birds) and a Sopwith rudder bar. I’ve got plans for lots more down the road!

I’ve made a point of designing all of these items so that I can produce copies for others if desired. The feedback from folks in the IL2 community has actually been so enthusiastic that I’ve opened a website to sell them, which you can find at vrsimpits.com. (Moderators, if linking my website violates any kind of policy please let me know and I will remove it!).

Thanks all!
-vonrickenbecker

9 Likes

Cool!

I will defenitely be looking into your stuff.

Happy simming

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I’ll bet that would be good in VR. Dang it, not another one [sim]. I’ll never get the lawn mowed.

Hmm…where’d I put that scarf?

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Wonderful stuff, @vonrickenbecker!
I do agree about FC in VR! It’s a dream come true…
That stick looks great!

I’d love to learn more about that cold cast technique you’re using.
I’m making a Viggen stick grip and would love to cast it in alu, but that’s a lot of work.
I’m considering TC-814 aluminium plastic. Is that what you’re using?

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Hey Troll!

I actually use a resin called Onyx Slow from a company called Smooth On. It’s black in color in its natural form, but before pouring the resin into the mold, I dust the mold with a fine powder of 6061 Aluminum. When the resin sets, this Aluminum powder is bonded to the surface and leaves a rough-cast finish, which can be brushed with fine steel wool to bring out a metallic shine. The video below from a prop maker is the closest to the process I use:

The TC-814 resin you mention is very interesting, I actually had not encountered it before! From looking at the description and material properties, I would be willing to bet that it is really just a clear or semi-opaque resin with a lot of powdered Aluminum mixed in. It would probably work for your application; my only concern is with the mix viscosity listed (2,900 cps). For reference, the resin I use has a mix viscosity of just 100 cps, and I still occasionally have issues with the resin not flowing into all the nooks and crannies of the mold before it begins to harden. If you don’t have any thin walls or small features it might be okay, but I would personally lean towards powdering the mold and using a normal resin.

I’d love to see pics of your Viggen grip when it’s done!

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Thanks for the info, @vonrickenbecker!
My stick will be painted, but I’d like the metal surface to show when the paint wear off. I will definitely look into your method!

1 Like
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