All I can offer is pics of my printer, doin’ its thang…
I threw the warped parts away.
Did you print in PLA? That can warp pretty easily at 30.
Yes.
Really? But the bed temp is 60°C when printing…
That is intended to keep the heat gradient from top top bottom. If you put a hot layer on top of ‘cold’ (lets say 20 degrees), it as you go up in layers, it will start to pull the outside edges of the print inward (as the hot plastic on top cools and contracts, and because the bottom/lower layers are at a ‘solid’ temperature and are not ‘fluid’ enough to give a little). The 60 degree setting helps keep the lower layers somewhat warm and prevents a lot of that contracting until the end when the whole print can cool down somewhat consistently. If you use an enclosure, with PLA, it is arguable that you might not need the bed heated at all as the enclosure helps keep the ‘ambient’ heat in the printer area high enough. ABS needs a bed temperature and enclosure to avoid cooling (or, maybe more accurately, inconsistent cooling).
Well, you live and you learn… Didn’t know it was that susceptible to deformation at such low temps.
Sweet first layer (or 2 … or 3)!
Found some filament with an interesting color…
I think PETG is easier to use than Pla, use it almost exclusively. Got hold of a reel of PETG Carbon from Polyalkemi.no that seems excellent for mechanical parts. High hardness, excellent finish and high temp tolerance. But You need to use a hardened nozzle.
I havent tried anything other than PLA…
Which printer do you have?
Prusa 3d mk3 kit upgraded to the latest 3s+
Chose Prusa because they won these yearly tests in Make mag and that it´s initially a reprap open source machine. When it´s stable I dare leave it alone and do other stuff…
Easy to make quality prints as long as You maintain it, and when they make new version you get upgrade kits for the non plastic parts, and print the plastic.
Prefer to pay a medium price, and not have to fiddle too much.
Normal Petg has no smell, but this Carbon version has some.
Petg prints easily, but is hydroscopic and get´s impossible to print if not completely dry.
Bought a sunlu filament dryer from Elefun.no, and that eliminated that printing problem.
PETG is little easier to sand than pla, but you get this glossy finish on the surface and just leave the prints as they are mostly. Only problem I´ve had with Petg are when you have to use supports, they tend to not separate cleanly so needs filing/sanding.
I bought the Prusa MK3s+ kit as well, and put it together over the course of a week in January. I absolutely love it. Out of the box, it was easy to assemble (just took my time, I worked at my own pace and had zero issues, the instructions are wonderful! If I did it again I could probably complete it in 6-8 hours now.) Unlike my brother’s Ender 3, it required zero tinkering to get wonderful prints with. Not that the Ender is a lesser product at all, his is excellent, but he did have some teething issues getting tuned to print perfectly. The automatic bed levelling has really spoiled me.
I’ve never printed with PETG, but would like to get some and try it out. Thanks for the encouragement, it’s good to hear that it’s easy to print with. Now that I have my enclosure completed I’m ready to branch out and print some different materials. I’ve been drying my PLA in a food dehydrator with excellent results.
At this point I’m just scared to say anything…
We know only you have the patience to do this. Steady on buddy…
Bottom lid, hot off the printer…
The color looks blue in the mobile phone camera, but it is more green in reality.
@Troll have you looked into weather technique’s used by scale model builders? I know model railroaders do awesome things with minimal means and they’ve got a lot of neat technique’s that could help you achieve the blue hamer pattern.