The T-Rudder Mk III pedals I also reviewed did not have toe brakes. They are narrow-track as well, but the innovative vertical motion means they were quite stable, even with aggressive ruddering. Very precise feel.
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I just bought the TFRP pedals. Not quite as nice as my broken Saiteks but certainly more than good enough.
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Yeah…that is my impression thus far. For $80, they are a good deal I think (depending on long term durability). I got about 10 years of good use out of my CH Pro Pedals - the plastic on those felt more beefy, but thus far, the action on the TFRP feels smoother.
Ah, yep, I got mixed up between the two - thanks.
You will probably get a better experience out of them if you screw them to a heavy piece of wood.
They can be used as is, but the rubber feet, while quite sticky, will tend to attract dust and lose their stickyness without regular cleaning. Also due to the small footprint of the base, they are a little prone to tilting if force is applied towards the ground, which is a bit annoying if you’re in the midst of things. The MFGs come pre-drilled exactly for that purpose though, so all you need is 4 screws and something to screw them to.
Overall, they’re probably the best piece of controller gear i own though, i think you’ll be pleased.
I have my CH Pro pedals velcroed to floor. They don’t move at all unless I really want them to.
This pedal order is quite educational as well, for instance, I never heard of Ljubljana, but that is where my pedals are currently 
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Good. Now trust good old Komemiute and google Ljubljanska. You will not be disappointed.
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yummy
One is the capital of Slovenia, the other is… well let’s not go there 
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No, seriously- it’s totally worth it and SFW!
But what if one works at a militarist vegan diner?
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I didn’t say Politically Correct…
Hi all. A little follow up on my TFRP pedals. After a month they began to spike badly. If you run the calibration included in the Thrustmaster folder it pulls up the standard Windows “Game Controller” tool. That works for basic calibration but did not solve my spiking. Every controller I have ever owned does this eventually and I usually solve it by tearing it apart and touching/pulling wires as if I understood them and usually the spiking would resolve itself (or placebo effect–either way, I was happy). This time I downloaded thrustmaster’s calibration and so far it has solved/masked the problem
I have the Thrustmaster T16000 FCS HOTAS and rudder pedals set. I think I paid $120 for them. Looking at all this high end gear, I realize I’m cheap. They work and that’s all they really have to do.
That’s not what I’d like to hear from a month old product.
Damit…I really don’t want to spend so much on proper pedals.
Man, I hope that is only your experience. I’m a month into owning mine…no problems yet…fingers crossed…
Nope, it was placebo. Spike is quite bad with a peak at around 75% right rudder where it reverses about 5% and then wobbles for the remainder of the throw. 
Hopefully TM will make it right. Is it under warranty?
Sounds like the potentiometer has gone poo poo if they use those. Unfortunate side effect of using mechanical variable resistance equipment. Some venders have a software filter that just says “well the value before this insanely out of line value was this and the value after too, so lets just discard this one”. But that’s not always the solution.