Yes. Manufacturers tend to build in the cheapest pots. This made me crazy on my Logitech G940 and I don’t understand this. It might have cost 5 Dollars more in production to built higher quality parts but you wouldn’t disappoint consumers as they are doing now.
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It’s still under warranty. They work well enough that I don’t want to waste this nice block of days off by dealing with Thrustmaster. I agree about the pots. Why is it that I have put thousands of hours into xbox and ps controllers and never once had an issue large enough to make me aware of it. But nearly every CH, Logitech, TM and Saitek controller I have ever owned has had in issue it some point. Well, as I think while I write, I realize that my issues are always with sliding or wheel axes; never x/y. Why is that?
The y axis pot on my trusty TM T Flight HOTAS X went pop yesterday after about a decade of loyal service. I suppose I can’t complain as it outlasted 2 CPUs and 3 graphics cards. The annoying thing was it happened suddenly while I was on final approach to EGLL in the King Air C90b. The first I knew of it was when I pulled back for the flare and the plane resolutely flew itself into a fiery grave. 
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Well this is promissing…
Dear Eric Anderson,
We thank you for your choice of Thrustmaster products and for reaching us regarding your inquiry.
Please send us a short video with the pedals in front of your monitor while performing a test in Game Controllers Panel. You can get there by pressing and holding the Windows button while pressing once the “R” button from your keyboard; type “joy.cpl” and press “Enter”.
Then double click on the name of the device that will appear on the new window.
In the Game Controllers Panel verify if each command responds properly to your actions.
Please send the movie back to us, using the link placed below:
The upload key is: —
Also please reply with the following details:
-
Picture of invoice -
Picture of serial number on the base of the device. -
Full name -
Full shipping address -
Phone number
We are looking forward to your answer.
To ensure the most efficient follow-up of your query, please answer directly to this email (do not open a new ticket).
Kind regards,
Your Thrustmaster Customer Support Agent, Gabriel
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I received the replacement pedals a couple of weeks ago. No spikes yet. (fingers crossed)
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I swear by Slaw device. They are solid, beautiful and precise. Not cheap but well worth it. They will be my sons someday.
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AWWWYISSS! The smell of new hardware…
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Please post a review when you get some time. My CH Pedals are starting to act up. They’ve served me well for many years and it just might be time for a replacement. Anyway, enjoy…
–T
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Unfortunately my flight stick is bonkers. It’s a software issue with windows 10. I don’t think Logitech will fix it anytime soon. So no review anytime soon 
No worries but sorry to hear about your stick.
–T
My TFRP pedals have been fine since replacement by Thrustmaster. About once a month I find that I need to calibrate them using the TFRP app. And for some reason the app requires that the USB be unplugged as the final step in the calibration process. A bit of a PITA but worth it.
Was going to say the same. I have the Cessna Pro ones - usual Saitek crappy potentiometers, I guess.
They are fine for helicopters in DCS and spaceships in Elite, but horrible for taxiing in FSX, P3D and XP-11. Were great when I got them, but that didn’t last too long. I’ve had them nearly 2 years now - they started acting up after about 15 months.
Oh - and they are the stiffest pedals I’ve had, even at the lightest friction setting.
@Sargoth - I’m thinking of getting a set of those, but they look a bit too close together? Are my knobbly knees going to be banging together (or my dented ankles, for that matter?)
Thanks for the feedback. I think I’m going to stick with the CH brand for now. I’m going to try some maintenance first then then replace with CH. There’s some nicer stuff out there but I don’t have that kind of budget.
–T
Hard to say. This is my first set. Really hard to do a comparison. They’re bigger than the images would suggest. They worked fine for me, the little time I got to use them.
Thanks - be nice if you could let us know how you get on with them, once you’ve had them a while.
A few bucks per potentiometer more and this problem would not exist. It’s the cheap crap that is being used that is a large part of the problem. Or just right out replace them by HALL sensors. Alas, I doubt companies are going to see the light anytime soon as long as everyone else is using em too.
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well I have to stand by my Saitek pro rudders. Maybe I am one of the lucky ones, but its of the first batch. Nothing wrong with the sensors in it. No spikes still very responsive. However they do need to be replaced, only because an internal plastic guide rail (which the pedal slides along) has snapped off. So whilst the movement being sensed is accurate, the actual mechanical movement can be restrained when the pedal slides slightly off its plastic rail.
I would definitely get another set of Saitek rudders, but very keen to see how the ones above pan out.
I would go for the VKB T-rudders, but the price tag is little bit too high for me right now. I will have to DIY some 
some sale here …didnt know that MFG has such wide selection now
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