Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar - let's get mechanical

Hah, nah. it’s expensive as hell but the only supplier that could get it to me into less then 100> pieces :smile:

Reassembly time, this is where the small rings will go.

Axle back in, 1 bigger ring on either side, helps a ton but could use some extra I’ve discovered.

Other assembly with a dab of bearing grease added on all corners. This will leave a nice film

So yeah… I screwed up. I should have placed the pitch axis 180 around… Wooops… But hey it works!

The good news is, is that it feels smoooooooth, the ball bearing grease is a happy choice.

The bad news, there’s still a little play. i’ll have to dig a bit further on where to improve. Possibly rings and extra tape.

Going to open it up again later this week, first the viggen :wink:

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Wut? I was talking about the Mudspike mug! :grin:

That’s like, in 50% of all the pictures I take :smile: perhaps I am a sucker for mugs :wink:

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Spend an hour flipping the pitch axis that I fubar’d, and I added the aluminium tape with 1 later on the gimbal and one on the axis. then liberally greased it up with ball bearing grease. So far it’s tight as can be but I have my doubts about that fix… oh well.

Fresh in from the USA, the magical Gardena 5/8 gardenhose fix and Cougar/warthog extension connector!

All joking aside, it’s probably cheaper to whip up a cad file for a machine shop and have them modify a pipe. That’s a 10 minute job for professionals.

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Liberated the thread, off to the hardware shop to find some find some fitting pipes.

EDIT: In a hunch looked at printing company) to see if someone took the liberty of building a new gimbal for the cougar. AND THEY DID! Ton’s of stuff from that author in this ED forum thread:

Still gonna see if I can build a stick extension in a cad program though.

Did some shopping today, got a 28mm to 22mm brass connector that you can solder copper pipes in. I can soldered a copper pipe of 50mm in the 22mm end, then I put the glorious Gardena connector over it. Oh, I also found a Gardena connector much like this one from the USA in my local shop… So bugger me with a fishfork, I missed that the first time round. I’ve also measure off a comfy length which comes down to about 39cm.

Oh, and ordered magnets and HAL sensors and I’ve got half a mind to order that 3D printed gimbal. So, lots of movement on the modding front today :wink:

Neat how the forum has placed these images innit?!

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Is your mug alright? I heard some … rumors…

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Yes, finished my coffee early this evening so it’s already in the are allocated for items to be cleaned in a hot wash!

Currently 80% through a fine beer!

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So I thought I could get away without making cutout’s for the handle. Alas I need them.

Coffee and making some advertisement money :wink:


First test flight was a great success!


Helicopter flying is bliss now. So much control for so little effort! If only I could have a force feedback!

@BeachAV8R, wanna borrow my 12" extension next time you are flying a helo campaign? :wink:


One minute of silence for your socks… :pensive:


New socks… About half of them have holes in them after a day…

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Make sure you put money in the parking meter or your Mi-8 might get towed!

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But… I am the relentless KMUD traffic police! :frowning:

Little update on the HAL sensor test. Made the magic smoke escape from one already, time to go back to the drawing board.

So the internal cable shifted a little(modified Mini DIN-6 allowed to pretend to be a Mini DIN-5). When I tried to reconnected the stick it just didn’t fit snugly anymore. Soon enough it turned out the whole thread had come off. Not a surprise given that it’s a PVC like material that is holding a relatively heavy metal stick to a base.

Oh well, in Adam Savage’ words, I need to make it again to do it right this time :wink:

For the extension I ordered 6 5.9CM electrical ‘tubes’.

That effect pretty much(not my stick). I will order some empty Mini DIN-5 connectors so that I can solder on my own cable. That’ll be much easier.

Inspired by @Troll’s efforts with 3D printing I’ve opted for a similar solution:

Drawn up in FreeCad, which is a bit wonky at times when you are used to programs like Blender 3D. But very nice anyway.

Thread is 13mm high, shaft extends a bit further down so it can be glued down easily. cut-out for the Mini-DIN-5 connector is 3.5mm deep(4mm on the control stick) so that it has some surface to gain friction on. Currently trying to figure out what material to use.