Thrustmaster TPR Pedals Brake modification

As some of you know, I have added a damper to the rudder function of my TPR pedals. @B12 modded his as well. I think we both agree that it adds a lot to the feel of the pedals.
For some reason I prefer heavy resistance in my flightsim controllers. I think it has something to do with wrestling real aircraft controls at work. My arms and legs are used to some resistance when flying and I can’t just turn that expectation off, when I’m at my ”Home Office” :wink:

The damper mod made the TPRs suitably heavy.
But the toebrakes are way too sloppy, for my taste. I tried adding a pull-down spring, and that helped, somewhat. But brake pedals, in cars and aircraft, get heavier the further you push them, while most commercially available flightsim pedals have more or less constant resistance and just measure the angle of the pedal. And when your feet are used to modulating pressure, as opposed to position, when braking…things get interesting. It just doesn’t feel right.

So, I needed to find a way to increase the resistance of the toebrakes.
The TPR toe brakes have a hall sensor assembly that also acts as a return spring.
I opened it up and started thinking about using another, larger, spring.

Here’s the new spring installed. The original spring for reference.

Now, installing a larger return spring like this will put a strain on the rest of the construction. The TPR pedals are ”all metal”. And while that is true, the footrest, swing arm and Hall sensor connector is made of Zamak, which is a popular aluminium alloy that is relatively easy to cast. Thrustmaster uses this alloy in their metal joystick handles as well. Unfortunately it’s rather brittle and breaks before it bends.
The TPR are well built and the only potential achilles heel I could identify was the plastic ball joint and the Zamak attachment.

Thrustmaster designed the pedals to be adjustable. The user can attach the Hall sensor assembly in a number of different holes in the swing arm and in several different positions on the footrest. This allows for different footrest angles and angular displacements.
I opted for a new aluminium bracket that is attached to all the available holes in the footrest. Seven 3mm screws, holding it firmly in place.

I also got a couple of all metal ball joints to replace the original plastic ones.

Now the resistance is much harder and my foot won’t automatically floor the toebrake…

Additional ”fun” story:

When plugging in the TPRs, after the modification, I was greeted with a never ending stream of Windows fault messages:
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”, or words to that effect.
I disconnected the TPRs and connected them again.
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”

Great! I managed to mess up my TPRs in the mod…!

I restarted the PC, but the problem persisted.
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”
But the TPRs seemed to work just fine…
I unplugged all other USB devices.
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”
I unplugged the TPR…again.
”Windows can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected”

WTF!?

It’s not the TPRs?

Suddenly it dawned on me.
When removing the TPRs from the SimBox I accidentally nudged a USB powered fan, in the process… This fan is connected to an internal USB port on the Motherboard. I must have pulled its chord, because the connector wasn’t seated fully. Reseated the connector and all was well…

Now, when Windows tells me that it can’t recognize the last USB device that was connected, I kind of assume it actually means the last USB device that was connected… Silly me! :roll_eyes:

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FTFY. :rofl:

Keeping track on these, I may eventually do some mods to my TPR’s once you mod experts finish re-engineering them!

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Yeah, the fan connector was obviously glitching, connecting and disconnecting itself and thus became the last USB device that was connected. Windows fault messages are always technically correct, but totally useless…

A helicopter was flying around above Seattle when an electrical malfunction disabled all of its electronic navigation and communications equipment. Due to low fog, the pilot could not determine their position or how to navigate to the airport.
The pilot saw a tall building, flew toward it, circled it as he drew a handwritten sign, and held it in the helicopters window. The pilots sign said “WHERE AM I?” in large letters. People in the tall building quickly responded, drew a large sign and held it in a building window. Their sign read: “YOU ARE IN A HELICOPTER.” The pilot smiled, waved, looked at the map and determined the course to steer to SeaTac where they landed safely. The co-pilot shook his head in disbelief and asked the pilot how the “YOU ARE IN A HELICOPTER” sign helped determine their position?
The pilot responded “I knew that had to be the Microsoft building because just like a Windows error message, the answer they gave me was technically correct, but completely useless.”

:wink:

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:rofl: That’s epic!

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Did some further modifications to my TPRs.
I switched the plastic end bearings for metal and made new brass bushings for the holes in the rocker arm and pedal arms. I’ve switched the steel rods, holding the end bearings, for screws. This allows me to press the brass bushings against the end bearing, keeping it snug.

I also exchanged the ball joint bearings that I added previously, when I switched springs in the brake sensor. The ball joints had a tiny little play in the socket, that manifested itself as a clicking noise when I applied brakes.

Now the entire assembly has zero play and operates smoothly.

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Hello everyone, (and Troll in particular)

Excuse me if I am in the wrong Topic, this is my first post, ever, on a forum. :sweat_smile: (please correct me)
After a lot of reading on this enlightening forum and in the mean while building, I have some questions.

As many before me, I’m building a rudder pedal setup (with brakes) and I decided to go for the TRP pedals design. I designed my interpretation in Rhino, and made it mainly out of aluminum.
I can figure out the mechanical side of the build but with the electronics I could use (a lot of) advice.

I want to use hall sensors, so one on the rudder axis, and one on each toe brake. I already have some promicro’s flashed with MMjoy2. And some sensors on a pcb (from Ali) and the diametrical ringmagnets.

Studying the posts about the position and movement of the sensors/magnets and comparing them with the Thrustmaster I noticed that for both inputs, the movement is not actually a rotation, especially for the toe brakes where the magnet slides in a linear fashion over the sensor (as far as I can derive from the pictures)
Also the rudder axis is not a rotation I think, but more of a pendulum motion. So the question is what kind of setup with what kind of sensors and magnets would you recommend? (Can the TLE5010g perform in this way?)
I could make the axis of the rudder rotate, instead of fixed (as it is now) to al least solve the problem there.

Here are some Rhino pics…







Looking forward for a reply! :grinning:

Dave.

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Hi Dave and welcome to Mudspike! :mudspike:
That is a most impressive design you’ve got there!
You could mount the rudder axis sensor on this axis:
image

The toe brake axis is a bit trickier but I guess you could put the sensor here:
image

This would require some mechanical constructions maybe with stationary magnets (red/blue in pic) and sensors (green) attached to mounts that rotates with the axis…?

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Thank you Troll for the fast reply! :slightly_smiling_face:

About the rudder axis; that’s what I meant when I wrote to make the axis rotate instead of the ‘scissors’.
Only I planned to put everything inside the base…
But I rather not do that, it’s extra complicated; fixing the axis to the scissors, and use extra bearings…
(btw I did not use any bearings, just teflon bushes) and the originals don’t work that way.

The solution for the toebrakes crossed my mind but because of lack of space on the inside and the risk of damage on the outside (and an increase in width) I don’t really like it.
I also saw somebody use a gear and rack to go from a linear movement to a rotation for toe brakes but it is not an elegant solution, I think. (Maybe I am to critical?)

Do you have an idea how the thrustmaster pedals work? I found this linear hall sensors online, but maybe ‘linear’ means linear function in stead of movement…

So my question remains; how can I use magnets and sensors for a movement other than a rotation?

some real stuff…



Have a good sunday! :sunny:
Dave

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Stunning build there! Love it!

I’d use pushrods and ball links, like these
https://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=517

https://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=1485_34_520

And then I’d couple that with control horns that holds a diametrical magnet, rotating around the sensor.

Beautiful work, that looks really well done! Makes me miss having access to a machine shop…