You are correct, sir!
Hoorah! So what’s the next wager?
Ok, in retrospect I should’ve found a scroll wheel before I designed the handle. I just decided on a 5mm thick dia. 30mm wheel and determined that I would scrounge one up later. No such luck… What to do, what to do? Just do it!
I drew up a pattern which I printed and glued to a 5mm alu plate. I carefully hand drilled the center of each hole.
Drilled the holes in the drillpress. 3mm holes and a 6mm chamfer drill, and then cut the wheel in the scroll saw.
A couple of hours and a few gallons of elbow grease later…
I’m gonna wanna steal your brain and tools
You can have the brain, or what’s left of it. Don’t think I’ll be missing much.
But come anywhere near my tools…
Threw some paint on the handle today…
Needs some sanding and respraying and resanding and respraying…
But I think I’m going to like the end result.
Shaping up nicely. Any plans on what gimbal/sensors you are going to use?
Yeah, it’s in the first post
I have a spare VKB Black Mamba pincher gimbal. Leftover from when I got the cam gimbal upgrade. I got some TLE5010 magnetic sensors that are a direct replacement for the VKB sensors.
Nice! How did the tolerances for you end up with the PA 2200(white strong flexible etc…) material? For me it’s a bit over the place, and removing 0.5mm of material is harder then it sounds, going to go at it with Proxxon tools and some dust protection.
I wonder if my modelling process has had any influence on the tolerances. The inner diameter of 22mm is 21.5 but the other diameter of 36mm is almost bang on.
Anyway, learned a lot about production tolerances and how to account for them!
I think it may have to do with how you convert the 3D file.
I convert mine to stl and I get the choice of surface deviation, standard deviation ( and a few other). I force surface dev. to 0 and then play around with standard dev. until I get it as small as possible without breaking the max poly limit.
My first models looked more like LEGO bricks, with a lot of visible polys, until I learned how to convert the files properly.
That is a… interesting projects plate you’ve got going there
Make me one too Now you know how it should be a doddle
I actually managed to program the two stage trigger into three stages…!
So, the first detent is switch no. 1. The end switch is no. 2. When you squeeze the trigger, no.1 closes, and as you continue to squeeze, no. 2 closes. As you ease off the trigger, no. 2 opens, and further, no. 1 opens. And, here’s the clever part! As no. 1 opens, virtual switch no. 3 sends a close/open signal.
MMJoy2 is great!