Announcing the 'Styrspak FPL 37 Viggen'

hotas

#41

Hej Jörgen
What is the plane regards to the AJS-37 stick? Approximately ETA? We are “some” guys that are very interested! Crowdfouning?


#42

The plan is to accelerate the project in my december vacation. Crowdfunding won’t help, unless the funds allow me to quit my day job. :wink:


#43

Nice, definitely interested.


#44

Got some ”2 comp. Alu” today.
TC-814.
Will make a test casting just to check it out.
If it checks out, I may cast the sticks in this material, instead of actual aluminium.


#45

OK…but I had kind of pictured you…

:open_mouth:


#46

That is not off the table…

I did a test cast in an old mould I made, for RC pilot figures.
I sprayed with the mould release agent. Really slippery stuff!

The A and B parts of the TC-814 was heavily sedimented in the boxes. It took some stirring to blend them. The de-mould time is about 3-4 hours. I’ll let it sit over night.

Stay tuned…


#47

It’s morning!
De-mould time…

The mould almost fell apart! Really impressed with the mould release agent.

Detail shot. A couple of bubbles. I’ll invest in a vacuum chamber. But that nose has been troublesome no matter what material I’m using.

I will now start making moulds of the stick grip parts, and cast copies for prototyping…


#48

Awesome! Love to see you making progress on this. I eagerly await the end result. Keep it up!


#49

Interested in this not just for the viggen, but also as a nice WWII stick. Just seems to have the right look.

Always fascinating to watch you work troll!


#50

Yeah…I was about to say that didn’t look like a stick grip.

Cool stuff! :slightly_smiling_face:


#51

Here’s the figure again. This time I burnished the surface with a steel spoon. Rubbing away the upper layer reveals a very metallic surface.
This is why I think the TC-814 may work just fine for this project as it will look like metal, when it get’s worn.

I only burnished half the figure.

Here’s the difference using flash.


#52

Concerning the bubbles, I take it you’ve tried shaking the mold a lot to try and get all the air bubbles out?


#53

Yes, as much as I could without spilling :slight_smile: I tapped it on the table. I wasn’t that concerned about bubbles, as it was just a test. When I cast the stick parts, I will probably brush the detailed parts of the mould, with the resin, put it together and pour.


#54

Ah cool! it looks really really neat so far!


#56

So… You want this moved somewhere? :wink:


#57

One of those weird things where somehow I switched the thread while posting. I got it. Thanks.


#58

I’d be lying if I said I haven’t been guilty of the same mistake… :wink:


#59


#60

Not the manliest colour on that silicone…


#61

15 hours of curing…
The silicone is still soft, but bounces back when touched. I used 2% catalyst, which would mean about 7 hrs of curing. However, it’s pretty cold in my hobbyroom. About maybe 18°C (64°F), which will affect the curing time.
Long curing times isn’t necessarily a bad thing, when casting. It means the material remains liquid for longer, settling into finer surface details and let trapped air bubbles surface… I hope this is the case…! :grimacing:
I didn’t de-gass the silicone, as I don’t have the equipment for it. Instead I followed the manual protocol of mixing carefully, to avoid creating bubbles, and pouring in a long, thin and even flow, allowing the silicone to cover the item from the bottom.
The surface looks good. Almost like glass. Some microscopic bubbles can be seen.