Cm3 throttle issues

I am having ‘fun’. For some reason the axis is no longer fuctioning as it should. Now dcs is not seeing the throttle at all. Windows does see it. After a couple of days working on it trying to go from Huey to F18 I fear I need knowlegable help

I don’t have the one I think you have - mine is the T50 (CMv3 - which was the third version of the original CM Mongoos), but I have had that issue.
I never managed to work out why it was wonky - I think it was the software, though. Eventually it sorted itself out. I did change different firmware a few times for the throttle and when I got a stable one and the issue had gone - which may not be connected - I decided to just keep using the same firmware and software - and so far, so good. Now been around 2 years since the issue and it hasn’t reared its ugly head.

*this is mine:

PS - for what it’s worth I don’t have great confidence in the integrity of their code.


Thanks for that. Good to know it is not just me. At least it doesnt effect stick, rudder or collective so I can keep flying Huey. I have however put a lot of time into preparing to fly the F18 and will continue to do so.

I occasionally have issues with lever axis or twist axis on my virpil alpha, when this happens the first thing to try is unplug and leave for a couple of minutes … if its still not seeing the axis then go for a go in to the virpil software and re-set up the the entire stick … you shouldn’t loose the bindings that are set in any flightsims. its a pain, but it doesn’t happen that often

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The cm3 or the computer?
I have it reading the axis, but they are very erratic. 90% to 100% to -7% as throttles move

@Scoop, did you calibrate the throttle in the windows game controller?
If not, don’t!
Only use Virpils own software for calibration.

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@Troll I just did. This did not cause the problem. I will recalibrate with Virpil but it only sees movevment at the extreme ranges, not the middle. Will that undo the windows calibration?

Yes, it should.

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the throttle… sorry was late on the reply

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We are talking about the T50 CM3 correct?

I had an issue with an axis last year. Ended up doing a complete uninstall, reinstall and firmware upgrade and haven’t had issues since. The software/firmware has definitely improved lately.
But it also could, unfortunafely, be a hardware failure. Is the warranty still in effect? Virpil has great customer service. Fast response time.


I’ve not had a lick of trouble with my CM3 since the first install, but it would not be unheard of for Virpil to have a hardware issue either. I concur with Chaz though, an unisntall, reinstall, and reflash with the latest firmware would be what I would do in the same situation. Another idea would be to take to the nearest Spiker, @Victork2 perhaps, to let him plug in and try on his rig in order to isolate the problem as hardware or software. Good luck regardless.


That’s one thing I like about VPC hardware - you have a choice of firmware and software and you can just use whatever suits you - as I am doing with my T50 HOTAS.

I reinstalled the old 3 virtual devices software for the throttle and it’s perfect for me. (20200325) Can’t remember which firmware I use.

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Virpil have sorted the problem. I flew a single circuit to prove to myself I could. Now to learn the TLAs, FLAs etc


Good to hear!
What caused the issue?

From Virpil

“Thanks for an update.
So my guess is that axis were calibrated with both throttle levers connected with locker pin or axis were calibrated in Windows or a different 3rd party software.
Once again, please keep in mind that we only recommend using VPC Configuration tool for axis calibration and the throttle levers should be disengaged in the process of calibration (= the two axis should be calibrated independently).”


Now I broke my G2. The plastic backstrap snapped where the earphones attach on the right hand side.

Any ideas on sourcing this as it would be a fix?

Superglue might do it but with my six thumbs I would probably drive over to @Victork2 to get skilled/safe hands

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Send me a picture @scoop let me have a look at where its broken and if its possible to maybe glue a strip on it to strengthen it.

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Will do. Look at the link above. Where the circular joint is at the end of the arm, it has a hole drilled in it. It broke cleanly from the hole, up and down. Might be a superglue job, maybe with a very slim washer glued on. It has to fit into a bayonet fitting which is quite tight. Photo in 45 mins roughly. Only broken on one side.

Shouldn’t be too bad to fix. Tin shim on either side and glue it all down

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