You should reinstall the drivers!
https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/hotaswt/2018_TMHW_1.exe
So yeah…my old computer with the 1080…no joy on that one either. So I think it is definitely the hardware in the stick.
Yeah…I tried turning that on/off and no luck with it…
Just the throttle…no sign of the stick…
The stick doesn’t even show up in the Game Controllers menu though…just the Devices and Printers. If I click on it and try to update the drivers in the Devices and Printers it just says it is already updated. If I try using the Thrustmaster firmware update…it fails as it is waiting for the third step (communication with the stick maybe?). I tried all the above on two computers, so it is very likely the stick is bricked. Which is OK…I’ve used the heck out of it.
BUT…now I wonder if I need to buy a whole stick…or just the base? I guess that would be $169 or so versus $269…so might be worth the $100 extra to just get the whole kit. My throttle seems fine…
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Chris, you might want to consider getting a VirPil WarBRD base…it’s a much nicer mechanism and you can use your current grip. Of course, getting a VirPil base might be a challenge right now.
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With that, yeah, sadly the stick is dead…
IDK if were the case or not, but i strongly not recommend you all the time plug in/out all the time like many people do when not need to use vs need to use, or on the bad developed game where they detect all axis at the same time and to avoid menus scrolling and messing, the devs recommend you to unplug the joysticks every time you play that games (like many unity3d games/devs).
Usually these joysticks (cougar and warthog) are strongly sensible to electric discharges and lightning when plugin/out.
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Yep, sounds like it’s dead. I started by upgrading the the VirPil Mongoos CM2 base, which is compatible with the Warthog stick (you’ll want to use the stiffest springs to offset the weight), and the difference in feel is simply amazing. Just make sure you have a solution figured out ahead of time for mounting it, since it’s a very different solution than a stock WH base.
Best of luck!
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$30 repair service on ebay. No personal experience with this.
Looks like we had a related topic on the Spike.
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Curious, how old is your TM Warthog?
My TM throttle went out last summer after nearly 11 years of use. Got it October/November 2010 just after the A-10 module was released. The stick portion also developed an intermittent first stage trigger, the year before, that I could not fix. Though disappointing, 11 years is a good run after so much gameplay. I eventually switched allegiance to Virpil and have been smiles since.
To piggyback off what @chipwich was saying, you may want to give this thread a read as well. Went through it myself with Guillermot a few years ago:
When my throttle Bricked I ordered one PCB from TM through support.
I may have an extra stick PCB in my storage closet.
as I replaced my base when it fell off the stand and destroyed the plastic inner gimble, the board was fine, as I tried to super glue the inner ball and it worked until glue wore off, just replaced the entire base instead of re gluing every few weeks.
The issue is likely a ground on the PCB, as my throttle worked on some ports for a few minutes then died if I unplugged it for a while, and re plugged the same. after a few minutes the PCB would kick the unit to bootloader mode. windows sees it connected by properties will say device is not functioning properly.
I can check my closet for the old base, remove pcb, put in a static baggy with some bubble wrap and prolly mail it out next week, to NC should be chump change from here.
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Looks like I bought mine in November of 2010…! 
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Yeah that was a good run…
Mine is from 2010 as well and my Throttle got bricked once too so, good enough I’d say.
Chris,
You probably have noticed that I think the X56 has been sent to us by gods from the future. But more importantly, it’s cheap and easy like my sister. Get one to tide yourself over until the quality setup of your choosing finally shows up. Then sell the Logitech for a $50 loss.
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I have at least two, maybe three X-52s in the house. I bought two brand new for the boys last year…so I can borrow one of theirs. And I think I might have a 3rd X-52 up in the attic…so I definitely can be back in the air soon. I am thinking about ordering the Warthog Stick base from Office Depot and giving it a shot…if it doesn’t work I can return it…
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what about looking at the Winwing stuff ?
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Generally I’m inclined to agree completely with this, as it is an amazing base when used in concert with TM sticks, and frankly highlights how outdated the Warthog base is. But, if memory serves, I think @BeachAV8R is on a glass desk for simming, yes? Two reasons this gives me hesitation:
-I feel the Warbrd is a bit too tall when used with TM sticks to be comfortable to use on top of a desk
-The solve for this would be to get desk mounts (from Virpl, Monstertech, or fox Mount), but I’d not want to clamp to a glass table top.
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Good point about clamping a mount to a glass surface, and the WarBRD is a little taller than the Warthog base.
I had such a frustrating time juggling the height of the controller mounts for my desk height (Yoke sitting on/above the desk made it too high…vs using MonsterTech mounts for my HOTAS. I ended up buying a height adjustable desk. I raise or lower it as needed when I swap out controllers. It’s awesome, but not exactly a frugal solution.
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The Magnetic base is the same as the Warthog base,
They changed the name for marketing purposes since they sell multiple grips now.
Also, Stick PCB isnt 100% easy switch, there’s some wires that are soldered on the PCB.
Hi BeachAV8R, did you ever resolve your issue with the Hotas Warthog Stick? I’m having the exact same problem with mine at the moment. Did you look at the DIN connector by any chance?
Hi @skydaver and welcome to Mudspike.
@BeachAV8R is taking a break from the forums, but as a fellow Warthog owner maybe a solution to your problem is, as you said, with the DIN connector?
A few years ago my stick suddenly decided it wasn’t going to work - literally one second it was fine, next nothing. When I checked the properties, it wasn’t seeing the axes or POV hat, none of the buttons worked except for the trigger (Button 1) and when I pulled that all the buttons lit up - see below:
One of the wires from the connector in the base had come adrift. The soldering is quite weak and there was just enough flex in the wires that over time the solder ‘snapped’. I’m not very good at soldering so I fixed it with a ‘conductive glue’ - https://www.wireglue.us/ Then sealed it with a blob of hot glue so it wouldn’y come apart again. It is still working fine nearly four years later.
It isn’t hard to disassemble the base to get at the connector, I just followed a YouTube vid.
All that said it is apparently easy to fry the PCB, especially if you disconnect or reconnect the handle when it is powered up. I have heard that even flashing the frimware is frought with danger? But in any case it is worth the effort to check the DIN connector before you bin it.
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Thanks for the reply, that’s a pity @BeachAV8R is away, my snag is identical in every way to his. I read of another similar issue where the DIN was found pushed in slightly and when rectified cured the snag. Mine however looks fine (solders too) but maybe something is breaking down inside the connector or one of the pin receivers are pushed back? Going to try some conductive paste in the connector next to see if that helps.