You and I both know it’s about the structure, not the material! 
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My brother has the BL touch for his Ender; it’s such a nice feature. Might help with your bed adhesion too, as first layer height will be more consistent.
Best way to get out of one rabbit hole, is to dig another! Have you googled “CNC machines” by chance…
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You evil, evil, man!
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About the sticktion, have you degreased the bed properly with isopropanol first? That helps me alot with all of addnorths PLA, great result with X-PLA in particular!
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Yes, I tried that. But I also got a tip that I should check the first layer settings and make sure that the cooling fan was turned off for the first layer(s). This made the AddNorth filament stick much better!
I got the magnetic bed today. This will make it easier to remove the prints as well.
And I need to find out how to mount the BL Touch… 
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I’m using a Raspberry Pi and the OctoPrint software with my 3D printer. It enables remote control of the printer, via network protocol. It also makes it possible to install a camera, to check on your prints and make time lapse movies of the print. I got a RbPi Camera but haven’t actually installed it until now.
I printed a camera house for it, made a sleeve for the camera flat cable and put it up today. The sleeve is made out of aluminium tape that sandwiches a couple of aluminium wires so that the sleeve will be able to hold the camera and be flexible. I put a braided plastic sleeve for cool looks and this is how it all turned out.
That little shiny box on the backside of the printer base is the Raspberry Pi enclosure.
The sleeve camera flexible neck.
Camera housing.
And this is what the camera sees. Put an AA battery for scale. Good enough to spot prints that have become unstuck or filament curls…
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Excellent…you can now monitor the printer in case it becomes sentient and starts printing another printer…
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Wow…once again a @Troll project where he engineers the $h!t out of every detail! veldig fint!
Would that aluminum tape thing work for any cable bundles? Like the rat’s nest of cables behind my computer? If so, where might one purchase such a product?
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Thanks!
Here’s the tape. Available at Biltema.
But for cable bundles I would use something like this.
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Yes…son=me good options there! Takk.
3D printing is FUN!
I think I may have mentioned that, once or twice? 
My Creality Ender 3V2 has been working really well and has produced many useful and nice prints. I have only printed PLA, which is generally the easiest plastic to use in a printer. It’s not the toughest or best plastic, though.
I felt the urge to try something different…
Carbon fiber plastic!
The Swedish filament producer, AddNorth, has a carbon fiber infused filament called Rigid X.
But this kind of plastic, PETG, needs more heat and it’s also abrasive on the filament extruder and nozzle. Basically, I needed to get some upgrades to print it.
So I got a Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder and hotend. This hotend has an all metal heatbreak, that can take higher temps. The heatbreak is where the heating block meets the cooler. The hotend needs to cool down above the nozzle, keeping the filament from melting higher up in the extruder. This part often contains PTFE teflon plastic, that will deform and release toxic fumes at higher temps. In addition to having an all metal heatbreak, the MicroSwiss also has the ability to carry the extruder stepper motor with it, shortening the distance the extruder has got to push the filament to the hotend. This is useful for more exotic plastics such as flexible filaments, so why not.
The MicroSwiss can print at higher temps, so it needs good cooling. The stock fans can be used, but I got new silent fans and a slightly larger print cooling fan. There’s one fan for the hotend and one that directs air to the actual 3D print. When the plastic has been melted and extruded, it needs to be cooled so it won’t sag. The higher the printing temp, the more airflow you need. I downloaded and printed a great fan housing from Thingiverse.
Looks cool, eh?
Now, adding a heavier hot end, carriage, extrudermotor, larger fans and housing adds weight to the X-carriage. Said X-carriage is elevated by a steppermotor and screwjack…on one end. This can lead to the carriage sagging when moving away from the supported side.
So I added a Dual-Z screwjack, to the other side. There are more elaborate Dual Z screwjacks available, with dual motors. But they have problems of their own like motors desynching and locking up. In short, they are more precise, but require more attention.
This is what I love about the Ender (and others) series of printers. They are really open ended. Works great out of the box, and covers the printing needs of most users. But you can get all kinds of upgrades, tailoring the printer to your needs.
And, it’s fun! Did I mention that…?
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Put it on eBay, someone is likely to buy it.
Wheels
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I want to know why you are buying another printer when you should be able to print another printer…
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Don’t want to give it any ideas… Printing parts for my upgrades is dangerous enough. One day it will connect the dots…!
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I finally had enough time this weekend to install the metal feeder on mine … Only been about 6weeks since it arrived… 
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Daaaamn that’s a beautiful print!
What kind if filament and settings?
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0.6mm nozzle (makes way more fast prints than high speeds" , its all about how much nozzle can ooze plastic)
PLA + (plus, not normal) , (i think that black is devil desing)
I use Cura, custom settings but first layer 0.28mm then 0.24 and 1.2mm walls (walls are more important to strenght than in fill) , infill gyroid 15% .
Speed is usually 60mm/s → and lots of tricks from here → https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSySGU-52Lo&t=288s&ab_channel=NeedItMakeIt
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvxugQmhrcc&t=202s&ab_channel=NeedItMakeIt
Infill is every second layer and inner walls speed is faster
Glass bed, 60 degress and nozzle 220
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