Holy $%*&
Now I don’t feel that bad anymore for being so much slower than you.
That setup is great. My screen is half that size and twice as far away, it also shakes because the wheel is attached to the same wooden desk.
(And most importantly: you clearly take virtual racing more seriously than I do). 
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Thanks Aginor! The irony is that I 95% drive in VR in DiRT Rally 2. I’ve tried changing the FOV via seat movement and that helps, but I always end up going back to VR. I seem to be able to drive road courses in 2D easier than rally for some reason. So for AC and ACC it’s probably 50/50.
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VR really does help, and thinking about it circuit racing is typically easier in 2D than rallying. I think it’s due to the generally lower slip angles.
Lately I’ve started noticing my head movement in DR2 in VR. Usually I thought my head was generally stationary as I’m mostly looking “forward,” along the velocity vector of the car. When the split times come up though, which are locked to true center, I’ve noticed they tend to move around a lot. 
Guess my brain is just compensating.
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I really need to get a wheel and pedals… I’m so jealous watching all you guys roaring around on dirt rally and I’m fumbling around with a 360 controller.
I’ve been on AC which SUCKS with a controller and project cars a lot recently (which is better with controller)and I keep feeling the pull of the nurburgring.
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Definitely jump in when you get the chance. A wheel for driving sims is like a HOTAS for flying; there’s no comparison to a game controller. I’d almost go as far as saying it’s a bigger leap for the wheel, since unlike HOTASes, almost all wheels have force feedback so you get a lot better connection to your virtual car.
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It’s like the difference in trying to fly your favorite DCS aircraft with a keyboard compared to a good HOTAS setup. I can usually tell watching a driver if they are using a gamepad because the inputs are erratic rather than a smooth curve.
I believe that @keets just picked up a G920. The Logitech G920 and G29 seem to be the best bang for buck for a FFB wheel in the sub $500 range. I see the G29 on sale for $300, including a great set of pedals.
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Update on my G920… initially took some time to adjust from my Logtech MoMo, but over time I’ve got the FFB in a happy place and all mistakes are now my own.
Pedals are way better than shipped with my old wheel 10 years ago.
Ideally I’d have gone with the Fanatec, but RL intervened and I couldn’t justify the uplift. Next time…
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Agreed. There is some criticism on YT for the chunk of rubber that emulates a load cell, but I actually thought it pretty effective. The Sim Racing Garage dude did a pretty good review of it, and there are some amazing mods for it.
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The Thrustmaster T150 is also an OK wheel for someone who doesn’t want to spend a lot of money.
Source: me, I have that one. Probably not the greatest thing but it works.
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Seems to be the consensus, hard to beat for the price.
Just saw this, much more feasible price for a handbrake, wonder how it is
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Mudcat, it works well and is the new version of the one that I was using…
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Hovering over the buy button for this set.
Under 200 bucks for three pedals and an H-shifter compatible with my T150 wheel.
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I like how the shifter has 8 positions. A lot of cars have 6 gears so you can still have that reverse gear.
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I have that shifter. Works well.
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Added the last two components to my sim rig and calling it finished.
Since GT wheels are beginning to look a lot like those in open wheel racing, and because I wanted to try the latest Codemasters F1 series, I ordered a Fanatec Formula v2. I arranged the buttons somewhere in between GT and F1 and came up with this for assignment…
But because I lost my Start button and wanted a place for ignition, I ordered this small button box from SimRacing4U. Ariel is the owner and very helpful via email.
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I cannot recommend that set!
I am considering getting the TH8A shifter for my own setup. I like that it has 7 forward and reverse, whereas the G27 only have 6 forward and reverse.
You may consider reversemounting the pedals as I have done with my G27’s.
Here are a couple of links on how to do it with the T3PA pedals
His reddit post about the mod
https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/d2nwda/inverted_my_regular_t3pa_pedals_that_came_with_my/
I do not know if the Mode switch work with the T-150 as he is using the T-300RS wheel, so here is a video about a brake mod that shows the internals of the pedals.
From that I would say that it should be enough to just swap the cables in the PCB if you want to retain the boxy thingie. If the pedals have different spring stiffnesses You could arrange them to you likeness.
I have have skipped the box entirely and have mounted my G27 pedals directly to a framework with a removable footrest. When I am not using my rudder pedals they are pushed against the frame backwall and for using them I just remove the footrest and pull the rudders out to where I need them.
It is easier to do with the G27/G29 pedals as each has 2 direct mount holes.
Note that my desk plate is 70 cm wide so you may not have room for a platfom like that.
An idea could be to mount a plate with the pedals on to the wall with swivels at the bottom, so it can swivel up to vertical when not in use. And some kind of brackets to keep it in place at the right angle when in the use position.
Something like a flip down bed or desk.
The T3PA’s may be a little more challenging.
If I where to do it I would probably drill a hole at the opposite end from the direct mount thread thingie. If the plastic housing has any function like as physical stops I would cut them out and retain them as well.
I am considering replacing my G27 with a G29.
I have just ordered Leo Bodnar’s G27 pedals and shifter adapters so I can use them as seperate USB units.
It is a UK company.
From what I have been able to determine it is possible to connect the G27 shifter to the G29 but you will not get to use the buttons on it. The Leo adapter will get me 19 functions to assing to whatever.
I have ordered the the Leo pedal adapter because I have swapped the G27 springs to my liking and the G29 has a loadcell simulating curve together with a rubber stopper that I may not like.
With it I can keep the G27 pedals.
Happy Simming
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Cool!
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Small correction there … the G27 only has 6 gates. There’s a 7th gate shown on the stick but it’s just for show. 
Soooo, you have either 5 forward and a reverse or 6 forward.
That’s why I’m also tempted to get the TH8A … 8 gates! The only problem is it’s $250 Canadian. Build quality looks good though and the chrome looks slick.
EDIT: Holy crap, I just found out that you can push the G27 stick down and throw it into the sixth gear gate to put it in reverse LOL! I went for so long without knowing that. Never mind my correction.
I’m not so sure they are all that different that what comes with the T150, besides the clutch pedal of course. I use the T300 and I think the only difference between the base pedals for mine and the T150 is the metal-ish pedals.
You don’t have to get crazy with them, but just me mounting mine on an angle changed the feeling/resistance quite a lot. Unless you really want the clutch pedal, might want to try just mounting the base to an incline first. There are plenty of ways to get that done without tearing everything apart and most likely with stuff already around the house.
*You can actually adjust the inclination of the pedals without mounting now that I think of it.
**bloody hell, the combo you found is cheaper than just buying the shifter by itself on amazon here
The main difference to the pedals that came with the T150 is that they are three instead of only two pedals.