Hmm. If you had a touch/light sensor of some kind on each of the buttons and a corresponding ‘highlighter’ in the cockpit that showed which assigned control / switch is being touched before pressing it, you could maybe get around the full VR glove issue. I don’t know, just throwing ideas around 
A better interim solution would be usage of the motion controllers typically included with a lot of VR sets. That functionality may already be there, of course, but I don’t think everything uses them in the same way. Then there’s also the fact you’d have to set the controllers aside when you want to use the stick and throttle.
Perhaps a better way might be to take the innards of those controllers and make a glove with a button at the tip, so the sensor is still on your hand – like the back of it – and you could pinch the button to activate the control. 
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THE KRAKEN - - The U.S. Navy’s Monster Motion-Based Research Simulator…!!
The real deal not a home toy 
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Made a quick update to the ole pit today.
Out with the old.
In with the new.
Also picked up a “push threw” afterburner detent a few weeks ago. While i wouldn’t say its a must have, its a very nice addition for the F-18.
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Glad to see I’m not the only one using a box to keep pedals where they need to be haha.
Actualy now you are the only one 
Have a link to where you picked that up? How difficult is it to install? On the fence about using one myself if I’m going to fly the Hornet as my primary aircraft.
Hey Kinger,
If I’m not mistaken, here is where the detent is available. I’ve been planning on getting some upgrades aas well. Installation is easy. You just use an allen tool to remove the two screws, then replace the TM original. There’s a video on the site. He also has a ton of other options… see other link.
–T
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Debolestis makes awesome stuff.
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Thanks!
Does this detent align with the afterburner in game? IE if you push up to the detent you’re at max dry thrust, and post detent you’re in afterburner?
Trevorr610 nailed it on the head. I got it from Shapways, and install is as easy as he said. I personally leave the screws finger tight so i don’t have to use an allen tool when i want to swap.
On the fence about using one myself if I’m going to fly the Hornet as my primary aircraft.
I’d say its definitely a nice to have as it gives you a nice feel for where Mil power is, which I think is nice behind the boat, but AB is relatively easy and natural to select compared to the Warthogs stock detent.
As far as I can tell, yes. At the detent I get 99-100% rpm and see a big jump in fuel flow, but no burner. Then as I start to push threw the detent the burners start lighting off.
I finally painted the wood behind my pedals after like 10 years 
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I got around to moving my stick from the side to the center. This should be much better for my shoulder. The two stabilizers that run between the table legs make the stick solid. Still need to tweak the stick angle and change the deck for the keyboard to add more space on the right. Then paint all the new pieces.
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I am jealous. Very clean setup!
Looking good - this is what I envisioned.
The throttle is in line with my left arm from the shoulder, with my left leg about a quarter way underneath the throttle support. The stick is at a good height and has 10" radius clearance. The deck is screwed into the table top so it doesn’t tilt. The upper deck is sitting on supports and has the electronics (usb hub and power supply) fixed to it - the KB, mouse and two MFCDs plug into that usb hub. A ground runs there, too, as well as the usb power and data cables. I will get new mouse pad material to cover much of the desktop.
While the whole thing hangs well over the front of this table, two thick wood supports are screwed into the bottom of the table and they extend underneath the back table so that this front table will not tip forward.
Another usb hub is mounted under the table for the throttle, stick and pedals.
I can use the right side of the new desk for regular computer stuff. This plywood ‘desk’ came from a scrap piece, otherwise I would have made it the full width of the table.
I also took time to clean the right-hand potentiometer on my Saitek Combat Pro pedals. Used isopropyl alcohol and a new acid brush to clean out the pot after taking it out of the assembly. All is working well - no jitters or bias.
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I’ve made a terrible mistake.
So yesterday I bought a new TV, a 50-inch 4K 60Hz TCL to replace our ancient 32-inch one (neither of us watch much TV so a big TV was never a priority).
Anyway, in my wisdom I decided to try running DCS on it, just to see if it works.
Soo it does work - circa 45-60 FPS on high settings, 30 over cities in PG…looks brilliant. Don’t need to zoom in on any gauges either, even the small ones are so clear.
There’s no way the fancy new TV can be stolen for gaming except on rare occasions, however…so I’m stuck with my 24-inch postcard of a screen on most nights. Guess how small it looks now. 
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As someone who did play on a 42" 4K TV, I can assure there you is a reasonable way to solve this problem.
Buy a VR headset
The clarity of 4K is nice, but I’ve found the immersion of VR to be inescapable.
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I use 55 inch 4k TV and I’m basically sat about 5 feet from it. I need to be a bit closer as I find it hard to read gauges from that distance and I don’t think my r290x2 is vr ready if I’m honest…
Construction time I think as the TV is amazing but just too far away from my rubbish eyes.
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